Monday, November 14, 2011

Český Krumlov, Czech Republic


Another work trip to Prague meant another trip of goulash and beer. But this time I also wanted to try something different. Instead of flying in early to sightsee within Prague, I wanted to take a trip outside of the city. I already made plans to stay with Calley (friend who used to live in Warsaw) in her great apartment with Ela (Warsaw friend who was also visiting Calley), and Calley also cooked for a few of us on another night. I also had a big week of training with a lot of networking to do, and visiting with some old friends. I was really looking forward to the week, but I also wanted to do something else in Prague that I had never done before. Leave it to Pavla and Martin to come up with a great idea.

Charles Bridge at night

I met Pavla and Martin back in April when Sherry and Jessica visited, and Pavla invited us to their party. It was a great party on their street, and ever since then they have always met me when I visited Prague for dinner or drinks. If you ever go to Prague, they will take care of you! They've already taken care of Meg and Robyn when they visited Prague, even when I wasn't there. And by "taken care of" I mean "got them really drunk on Czech beer and shots".

Anyway, Pavla had the idea of going to Cesky Krumlov for a day. She had never been, and Martin had been there a couple weeks before and had an entire itinerary planned out...and he had a car, which was the only reason we invited him great. He didn't party the night before (which is more rare than a stranger in Moscow actually helping me) so he would be able to drive us early in the morning. I have to really thank him for this because the trip was great, and as usual, I fell asleep in the car (I always fall asleep if I am in the car for more than 20 minutes...I blame my parents for that). Their friend Olinka was also with us, so there were plenty of people to keep up the conversation (I only slept for 20 minutes or so, I think) :). Olinka told Pavla she was nervous about meeting me because she isn't so confident in her English, but she was super friendly and nice, and she understood most everything I said. This was obvious because she always laughed at my jokes when nobody else would (clearly she was the only one who understood). 

On the way, we stopped by Hluboka, home to a recently renovated English castle. You can tell the design is pretty recent because there wasn't really any fortification there.  But it was really nice, clean and great for taking jumping pictures. It was a gorgeous day, and combined with the changing leaves, it might have been the perfect day for this trip.

Getting hit in the face by a pile of leaves during a jumping picture

Martin attempting a death-defying jumping picture
  
Don't ask me why Olinka is laying on the ground
  
Since we were following Martin's itinerary, we stopped at the Czech restaurant that he found on his last trip...and it had great local food, and of course, shots of Becherovka (an herbal liquor that goes down pretty nice). Martin chugged 2 non-alcoholic Czech beers faster than I could finish my one shot.

My roast pork and dumplings

Finally we arrived in Cesky Krumlov in the early afternoon, where we were able to spend a few hours walking around, shopping, and taking lots of pictures. If you ever have a few days in Prague, you should check this place out. It took about 2.5 hours to get there, and it was well worth it. We didn't spend the night (but could have), as it was possible to do it all in a day trip. If you go in the Summer, apparently a lot of people raft/canoe down the river so you could take a couple days.

The "Cesky" in Cesky Krumlov is to differentiate it from a different town also called "Krumlov" in another region (this one is in Bohemia as opposed to Moravia). At least that's what Martin told me. He could be lying. Actually, I just checked, he's not lying. Or I should say "I just Czeched". 

Kids these days take pictures with their iPads

This is the old moat, where instead of water, they had bears (look closely!)

The city is very small, made up of a beautiful Old Town and a nice castle across the river. The views are stunning...I didn't know which way to take pictures because in every direction the view was amazing; from high, from low, from the tower, from the hill, from the riverbed, from the bridges, from the women's bathroom (oh no, that's in the Hancock Tower in Chicago). Again, it was a combination of the beauty of the city, the blue skies and the colorful leaves.

Could this be the best view?

Or maybe this?

Or this?

 
Moon rising over the river

Heading out of the city under the bridge structure thingy (that's the official name)

In the end, the day was great, and it was nice to spend time with friends. The week of training was also great, I saw a lot of old friends and met a lot of great people from all over CEE. I don't know what it is about Prague, but every time I go, I always come back a very happy guy.

Some of my class at our celebration dinner

Friday, November 4, 2011

Halloween weekend bucket list

November 1 is a holiday in Poland (All Saint's Day) and since it was a Tuesday this year, most people took Halloween off as well to make a 4-day weekend. It's great to have the day after Halloween off, since normally there are big parties on Halloween. However, I've discovered here that Halloween is not that big of a party, not many people dress up, and most people leave the city to be with their families. So I wasn't all that concerned if I missed Halloween and went out of town. Plus it seems like a waste to not travel when you have a 4 day weekend and limited time in Europe.  I was about to click "buy" for a ticket to Rome for 3 nights, but just as I did, the price went up by quite a bit, as if it was a sign to stay in Warsaw and do some other things I haven't done yet. Thus the creation of my Halloween weekend bucket list.

Halloween weekend bucket list item #1: Try a new restaurant

A while ago I walked past this restaurant called Browar de Brasil. It's a brewery, and it's Brazilian (if you couldn't figure it out). And when it comes to Brazilian restaurants, you know that there will be lots of meat. Of the all-you-can-eat variety, aka Churrascaria. And of course I got that. The meat was pretty good, fairly cheap ($20 including sides), and the service was extremely friendly (they were Brazilian, not Polish).  In fact, when I arrived I tried to speak Polish and the guy didn't understand me...and when he spoke back I didn't understand him.  Turns out it's because he is Brazilian and his Polish is worse than mine! The restaurant itself was a very fun environment too (maybe because the waitresses were dressed in cheerleader outfits). I even tried the chicken hearts, which the waiter called "Brazilian Viagra". He said "If you pop 4 of these, after a few minutes the table will lift off the ground". No joke. I only had 1.5.

Meat and cheerleaders

HW bucket list item #2: Take a day trip out of Warsaw

There are many places in Poland that I want to visit, but haven't been to, and hopefully I will start knocking these off soon. For this trip, a friend suggested Torun. Everyone says Torun is a great place to visit (and live), and it's even very high on the list of top Eastern European cities, not just in Poland. Some of the big draws are the medieval city center, the 13th century castle ruins of the Teutonic Knights (Poland and the Teutonics fought over the city in the 15th century), the fact that it's still mostly original (it wasn't damaged during WWII), and that it's where Copernicus was born back in 1473. Over time, Torun has been passed back and forth between Teutonics, Poland, Russia, Prussia, and Germany (and probably others).

Old Teutonic 13th century castle ruins 

Toruń Old Town

So I decided to go to Torun for the day. I was accompanied by a friend, who wishes to be unnamed, due to the following story.  I won't get into too much details about the train situation, but she (who is Polish) might be worse than me at buying train tickets. First, she was confused as to which station we were to leave from so we had to change our plans before we even left.  After we got to the right station, we ended up waiting on the wrong platform (good thing the train was late and we realized it before it arrived). Then we got on the wrong wagon, had to get off to switch wagons, then finally we got to our seat. Except someone was in our seat. So my unnamed friend spoke to the person saying "that's our seat".  And the guy said "yes, this was your seat...2 days ago"....because we had tickets for the 27th...and it was the 29th!  Whoops.  "Someone" (not me) bought the ticket for the wrong day. So we ended up sitting in the wagon corridor, which wasn't so bad.  She felt really bad, but honestly it was no big deal at all.  At least we were on the train. When the ticket taker came by, I think she greased him so we didn't have to buy 2nd tickets, but wouldn't tell me exactly what happened. Maybe someday I will teach her how to order train tickets in Polish, since I am so good at it.

Me in the corridor

Neighbor enjoying a pickle in the corridor

My unnamed guide

HW bucket list item #3: Buy a bottle of sriracha

Done. Times two. The second one is garlic flavored. Imagine taking sriracha and mixing in garlic. Yes, it's awesome.

Regular and garlic sriracha

HW bucket list item #4: Bowl in Halloween costume

A group of 9 of us met at a bowling alley, half of us in costumes. It was a fun night of bowling, even though everyone was exhausted from the night before. In any case, it's hard to bowl in a sumo outfit. I don't even think I broke 100.

Not so good...

Sumo and Smurfette

Little devil and a cat, although you can't really tell she is a cat here

HW bucket list item #5: See a part of the city I haven't seen before

This one was a combination of sightseeing and cultural experience. Every November 1 (All Saint's Day), the entire Polish population visits the cemeteries around Poland to pay tribute to the dead (ancestors, famous people, random people with pretty tombstones, etc). Dominika organized a group to go at night to Powąski cemetary, which was pretty impressive. There were thousands of people in the cemetery, walking around the entire cemetery, like it was some sort of museum. There were candles and flowers everywhere, and it really impressed me how important this day is to them. This is part of the reason that Halloween isn't highly celebrated...because most people are in mourning during this time, spending time with their families. Thinking back to the US, I have probably been to cemeteries less than 5 times to "visit" graves, and one of those times was to find Bruce Lee.

Candles all around the cemetery

It can be a bit spooky

HW bucket list item #6: Book my next trip

I will be spending my Christmas eating pizza and spaghetti in...Rome!

Overall, you can see that the weekend was a pretty big success.  Other bonuses from the long weekend include an unforgettable (but forgotten) night out at Opera Club, watching the last Harry Potter in poor quality streaming on my computer (my slow internet basically ruins my life), finishing the last season of Friday Night Lights (BEST SHOW EVER), starting Season 2 of Glee, and finally getting a bit of rest.