Since I had to spend 10 days in Mongolia for work (see post on my life in Ulaanbaatar), I had to spend some personal time exploring the country as well. I wanted to visit a few different places, but honestly I had no idea about any of them. I considered going to Lake Khovsgol in the North, which is the younger sister to Lake Bajkal, but instead chose to visit the Gobi Desert in the south, and Central Mongolia, to the West of UB. I couldn't do this alone, so I looked to hire a driver and a guide, asking a local tourist office to arrange something for me. Within a day, they had an itinerary set up, along with 2 different drivers (one for each location) and 2 guides (both named Zaya).
The trip started with a short flight from UB to Dalanzadgad, a small town in the South Gobi. It was easy for my guide to find me in the terminal because there was only one gate in the entire airport. And by "entire airport" I mean a building the size of a 7-11 store. I grabbed my small duffle bag from the baggage claim (which was a bin in the parking lot) and we headed on our way. For 8 days away, I didn't take much clothes, as the travel agent told me people don't usually change clothes in the desert; since the air is pretty dry, even though around 80 degrees in August (60 at night), people don't sweat. I could wash my running shirts and socks when we found a sink, so all I really needed was a few layers for the evenings, and some undies. I didn't have much space anyway since most of my bag was filled with the sleeping bag and air mattress that the agent let me borrow.
We picked up a few cases of water at a shop (yes, they have shops!), some snacks, and a couple bottles of vodka for our host families, then were on our way. I checked my Blackberry (rest in peace now that I have an iPhone), noticing that there was no data coverage (and mostly no phone signal at all), and realized I would be cut off from work completely. Not being connected was OK, except travelling alone AND not being connected is a bit sad...I mean, without being able to post stuff on Facebook, what would I do with myself?
Zaya #1 was super friendly and smiley, always taking care that I was comfortable and happy. She was fairly new to being a guide, so I would call her more of a translator than a guide. She didn't know much about the areas we were visiting; instead she had to ask the driver and then she'd translate. But we also had some problems with the translations, because sometimes she would say "I don't know how to say that in English", and that was the end of the story. For example, she couldn't explain why the Gobi is considered a desert, even though there was lots of green-ish grass and shrubs around, and and not much sand (I thought deserts were mostly sand). Well, it turns out I'm the idiot, because sand covers only 20% of the deserts in the world. I guess it's considered a desert based on the climate, not on what's on the ground. She also liked to answer open-ended questions with "yes" and a head-nod, which was super helpful. But really, she was really nice, so it was hard to be upset.
An hour outside of the city we ran out of paved road and started driving on the dirt and grass, following tracks that other drivers had made. There were no street signs or GPS, lots of camels staring out into the horizon, horses rolling in the dirt, sheep and goats bouncing around, acting like best friends, a handful of ger tents every few miles, zero trees, zero shops, zero gas stations, and zero help if something happened to our car. Somehow, our driver (who was named Erdenbat, which took me 3 days to learn how to say) knew where he was going based on the landmarks - hills, dunes, settlements, etc. If I tried to drive there by myself, I'd still be out there.
The plan was to stay in ger camps for a few nights, which were like camp grounds with gers built for guests; some camps having a dining hall, maybe a shower (with slow dripping water), and if you were lucky, an actual toilet. But usually they had poor plumbing, so you had to throw the used TP into a trash bin NEXT TO the toilet. In my mind this is even nastier than pooping in a hole in the ground - especially when the trash bins have swinging lids, because the swinging lids get POOP ON THEM!
We were also going to stay a few nights with whatever nomadic families we came across in the middle of the desert. We found our first family around lunch time, and I was really excited, and a bit nervous. Erdenbat seemed to know the family from before and I think he arranged the visit before we arrived, which was probably difficult since there is no phone or internet. Either that, or he just knew approximately where they live and planned to just show up and ask if there is free space. They immediately fed us some home made donuts, fermented horse milk (which was just sitting in a big bowl inside the tent for who knows how long, and tasted like sour milk mixed with vodka), and a boiled goat/sheep's milk that curdled on top after sitting out. They consume several liters of milk each day, since they have dozens of horses, goats and sheep, and nothing else to do with it. I didn't want to ask (I wasn't so brave on the first day), but I was worried this was going to be our only food for lunch. So I ate a few lactaid pills, plugged my nose when drinking the milk (they pass it around in a communal bowl and everyone takes turns), and ate about 20 donuts.
I started feeling sick when the actual lunch came out (fried noodles with sheep meat and canned Polish pickle salad). Every meal turned out to be something similar to this: sheep, with some "vegetables" (i.e. very few pieces of potatoes, carrots, and/or onions), either with noodles, in soup (with noodles) or with rice. Sometimes it was in the form of a dumpling, or came with chunks of fat in it; sometimes it even had various insects or even some black strands of hair. No matter the variation, it always had the same core ingredients.
The gers are bigger inside than I thought. They're not "big", but they're comfortable enough for a few people to sit around and chat, and for a couple beds. They are made from a wooden frame (lots of parts that must fit into a puzzle just perfectly), wool insulation, a cover over the top, and a hole in the middle for ventilation and the chimney. This particular family also used solar power (for heating water I imagine) and a satellite dish to watch a 13 inch TV, so they weren't totally backwards in time. Since most of their lifestyle revolves around their livestock (and they spend most of the day milking them or tending to their needs), they need to move their entire camp every few months to make sure the animals are finding enough fresh grass. And usually they go back to the same site in the winter, to the permanent animal shelters they've built. Supposedly they follow the Nomad Bro Code and nobody claims someone else's shelters when they're not there.
The man was making some rope from hide while we ate lunch, then they let me watch them milk the animals. It was funny that they have to trick the mommy horses into thinking a baby was drinking, by having the baby stand next to it and take a few sucks, then taking the baby's mouth away from the boobies and pumping it into buckets. It's such an interesting lifestyle. I found a short article about nomadic life generally that is pretty interesting.
Most of the animals are really smart too, as somehow, even after roaming around all day, they return just in time for the evening milking. Zaya told me they come home just after sunset, and sure enough, as dusk settled in, I looked out on the horizon and could see a giant wave of sheep and goats coming home. However, there was one time where we were walking around some river bank around sunset, and noticed 4 random goats jogging after us. Once they caught up to us, they slowed down and just walked with us. It was really cute because the "leader" of their fellowship was just a little guy, obviously younger, but less clueless than the others. I think they thought we would lead them home, because they followed us for a good 10 minutes. But we weren't going to their "home"; we were going to our car. We didn't even know where their home was. So I think we disappointed them when we drove away, leaving them standing and looking around, wondering where the heck they were. Sorry guys. I said MOST of them are smart.
Everything (and everyone) seemed pretty clean, considering there are no showers, washing machines or running water around. It was peaceful that the only sounds were the wind, footsteps and bit of neighing and snorting from the horses (this actually got annoying at night when I couldn't fall asleep because of it). I also had to carry baby wipes every where I went, since I was nervous how my stomach would react to all the dairy from lunch (but apparently it was low lactose).
During some of our rest time, Erdenbaat passed me a smooth bottle made out of some kind of stone. It looked like a bottle with magic potions, so I inspected it, nodded and smiled, trying to communicate that it was interesting to me, then passed it back. Then he motioned to me to unscrew the cap, pull out the small spoon (it looked like the little brush at the end of a bottle of nail polish), and put the scooper up to my nose. What? I looked super confused so he took it from me, scooped up some of the powder that was inside the bottle, and stuck it up one of his nostrils. He closed the other nostril with his fingers and inhaled, sucking the brown powder off the scooper. Then he did the same thing in the other nostril. For a minute I waited to see if he would start acting crazy, like it was some drug or something. Nothing happened, so when he offered it back to me, I figured I had to do it. I didn't want to offend him on our first day together. I went through the motions just like he did, put a small pile of whatever it was on the tip of the spoon, and gently sucked it up my nose like a delicate princess. Nothing happened. He laughed and made a strong nose-sucking sound, plugging one nostril, urging me to do the same. So I did, sucking much harder than the first time, and I think it sucked all the way up into my brain. I let out a monstrous sneeze. He laughed again, harder this time, and I gave it back without trying the other nostril. He could tell from the tears in my eyes that I didn't need another hit. Even as I write this, my nose is itching and I have the feeling of pepper in my throat. Zaya couldn't explain what it was at the time, other than saying "it's something from a plant", which could have meant it was anything from mushrooms to cocaine to blueberries. It "tasted" a little bit like cinnamon, and my instincts told me that if it tasted like cinnamon it couldn't be bad for me. Turns out that it was snuff, and it was my first and only experience putting tobacco in my body (until the second time I did it, when saying goodbye to Erdenbat at the airport - but I had to because he was an awesome guy).
The three of us shared a tent that night (a guest tent the owners rented out), which was about $5 per person for 3 meals and a bed. There were huge spiders crawling around everything but I just ignored them when I turned off my headlamp. Since there was no running water, I "washed up" with some wet naps I bought in UB. The outhouse was a couple hundred meters from the tent, so going out there in the dark was a bit scary. The weather was cool but comfortable, not needing more than shorts and a long sleeve t-shirt in my sleeping bag (I didn't want to sleep in the blanket that the family provided because who knows who or what else slept in there - but I guess I could ask the same question about the borrowed sleeping bag). I did wake up every morning with strange bug bites all over my body, but I guess it's a normal hazard of sleeping in the desert. After a breakfast of donuts, more milk products, and tea made with cloudy hot water (I tried not to think about why it was cloudy), we were off on the super bumpy roads through fields and fog.
The next night we stayed at a ger camp, which meant I could charge my iPad! The camps usually turn on the electricity for a couple hours each evening for this, which was nice, so I could watch some movies before bed. All of the camps had very nice people, friendly and attentive, but didn't speak much English. Erdenbat and Zaya napped while I went for a jog around the camp, chasing some camels through the open plains for a picture. I ended up running about 6km chasing them all over (partly because I forgot my camera battery in my tent and had to run back after already reaching the camels...and when I went back to them, they had moved further away). Then I remembered Zaya warning me about snakes, spiders and scorpions and I panicked and returned home as fast as possible. It was nice to have time to sight-see, but also to relax and not worry about anything.
I was sitting on the patio in the warm afternoon sun, about to open my iPad, when the camp owner came over to stand by me. I was the only person on a giant patio, so it was kind of awkward. He was staring and smiling at me, so I asked if I could help him with something. Hopefully with something that would make him go away. Then he talked to me in 1 or 2 word sentences, obviously not comfortable communicating in English. It was weird at first, but it turns out he was just trying to be friendly. His young son came over, said "hello", and looked like he wanted to play with my iPad, so I let him take a look. Within 10 seconds he could figure out all the commands to the FIFA soccer game (while I suck at it even though I can read the English commands). He gave his little sister (who looked about 3) a chance to play some Angry Birds, then got frustrated that she couldn't do it, so he took over. I spent the next hour waiting for him to finish. Once in a while he'd whimper and show the screen to me, because it was asking him to click on some buttons to get to the next menu (and he couldn't read it). I just sat and watched, and wandered around taking pictures. At least he played as the Seattle Sounders, and kept winning. Just when I thought I was getting it back, his dad returned and the two of them played while I watched, again. The sun was shining, I had a Golden Gobi beer in hand, my mind was clear, and I actually couldn't have been happier.
A few places we visited
- Yolyn Canyon - a peaceful hike along a small stream with fresh crisp air. The stream turns to a sheet of ice in the winter (even in the middle of the desert). At the time I was surprised to see horses and a "toilet" that was just a hole in the ground with 4 walls and a roof built around it. I didn't know that I would be using these toilets for most of the next week.
A few other tidbits:
- The landscape was changing with every day's drive; from rocks, to sand, to flat lands with tumbleweed, to hills, to red cliffs. It was great just to stare out the window while driving. Here's my album of pictures I took from the car ride.
- My guides always answered the same questions when we were approached by other Mongolians. I could hear their response, the same every time: "No, he's American. From Japan. Yes, I know he looks Mongolian".
- I got used to being called "Oy!" by everyone.
- Here's a question: when you use a translator, are you supposed to look at the translator when you talk, or to the person for whom the speech is intended, even though they don't understand you?
- Erdenbat wore the same clothes the whole time (except sometimes he took off his fleece or his hat). I guess he's used to it after 15 years.
- Sheep have really weird tails, and they are best friends with goats, always running around together.
The trip started with a short flight from UB to Dalanzadgad, a small town in the South Gobi. It was easy for my guide to find me in the terminal because there was only one gate in the entire airport. And by "entire airport" I mean a building the size of a 7-11 store. I grabbed my small duffle bag from the baggage claim (which was a bin in the parking lot) and we headed on our way. For 8 days away, I didn't take much clothes, as the travel agent told me people don't usually change clothes in the desert; since the air is pretty dry, even though around 80 degrees in August (60 at night), people don't sweat. I could wash my running shirts and socks when we found a sink, so all I really needed was a few layers for the evenings, and some undies. I didn't have much space anyway since most of my bag was filled with the sleeping bag and air mattress that the agent let me borrow.
We picked up a few cases of water at a shop (yes, they have shops!), some snacks, and a couple bottles of vodka for our host families, then were on our way. I checked my Blackberry (rest in peace now that I have an iPhone), noticing that there was no data coverage (and mostly no phone signal at all), and realized I would be cut off from work completely. Not being connected was OK, except travelling alone AND not being connected is a bit sad...I mean, without being able to post stuff on Facebook, what would I do with myself?
Zaya #1 was super friendly and smiley, always taking care that I was comfortable and happy. She was fairly new to being a guide, so I would call her more of a translator than a guide. She didn't know much about the areas we were visiting; instead she had to ask the driver and then she'd translate. But we also had some problems with the translations, because sometimes she would say "I don't know how to say that in English", and that was the end of the story. For example, she couldn't explain why the Gobi is considered a desert, even though there was lots of green-ish grass and shrubs around, and and not much sand (I thought deserts were mostly sand). Well, it turns out I'm the idiot, because sand covers only 20% of the deserts in the world. I guess it's considered a desert based on the climate, not on what's on the ground. She also liked to answer open-ended questions with "yes" and a head-nod, which was super helpful. But really, she was really nice, so it was hard to be upset.
An hour outside of the city we ran out of paved road and started driving on the dirt and grass, following tracks that other drivers had made. There were no street signs or GPS, lots of camels staring out into the horizon, horses rolling in the dirt, sheep and goats bouncing around, acting like best friends, a handful of ger tents every few miles, zero trees, zero shops, zero gas stations, and zero help if something happened to our car. Somehow, our driver (who was named Erdenbat, which took me 3 days to learn how to say) knew where he was going based on the landmarks - hills, dunes, settlements, etc. If I tried to drive there by myself, I'd still be out there.
Lots of difficult terrain like this
Not the kind of traffic jam I'm used to
The plan was to stay in ger camps for a few nights, which were like camp grounds with gers built for guests; some camps having a dining hall, maybe a shower (with slow dripping water), and if you were lucky, an actual toilet. But usually they had poor plumbing, so you had to throw the used TP into a trash bin NEXT TO the toilet. In my mind this is even nastier than pooping in a hole in the ground - especially when the trash bins have swinging lids, because the swinging lids get POOP ON THEM!
We were also going to stay a few nights with whatever nomadic families we came across in the middle of the desert. We found our first family around lunch time, and I was really excited, and a bit nervous. Erdenbat seemed to know the family from before and I think he arranged the visit before we arrived, which was probably difficult since there is no phone or internet. Either that, or he just knew approximately where they live and planned to just show up and ask if there is free space. They immediately fed us some home made donuts, fermented horse milk (which was just sitting in a big bowl inside the tent for who knows how long, and tasted like sour milk mixed with vodka), and a boiled goat/sheep's milk that curdled on top after sitting out. They consume several liters of milk each day, since they have dozens of horses, goats and sheep, and nothing else to do with it. I didn't want to ask (I wasn't so brave on the first day), but I was worried this was going to be our only food for lunch. So I ate a few lactaid pills, plugged my nose when drinking the milk (they pass it around in a communal bowl and everyone takes turns), and ate about 20 donuts.
The first family's tents and "farm"
Home made donuts and a cauldron of fermented horse milk
I started feeling sick when the actual lunch came out (fried noodles with sheep meat and canned Polish pickle salad). Every meal turned out to be something similar to this: sheep, with some "vegetables" (i.e. very few pieces of potatoes, carrots, and/or onions), either with noodles, in soup (with noodles) or with rice. Sometimes it was in the form of a dumpling, or came with chunks of fat in it; sometimes it even had various insects or even some black strands of hair. No matter the variation, it always had the same core ingredients.
Horse meat dumplings
The gers are bigger inside than I thought. They're not "big", but they're comfortable enough for a few people to sit around and chat, and for a couple beds. They are made from a wooden frame (lots of parts that must fit into a puzzle just perfectly), wool insulation, a cover over the top, and a hole in the middle for ventilation and the chimney. This particular family also used solar power (for heating water I imagine) and a satellite dish to watch a 13 inch TV, so they weren't totally backwards in time. Since most of their lifestyle revolves around their livestock (and they spend most of the day milking them or tending to their needs), they need to move their entire camp every few months to make sure the animals are finding enough fresh grass. And usually they go back to the same site in the winter, to the permanent animal shelters they've built. Supposedly they follow the Nomad Bro Code and nobody claims someone else's shelters when they're not there.
Inside the family's ger
The man was making some rope from hide while we ate lunch, then they let me watch them milk the animals. It was funny that they have to trick the mommy horses into thinking a baby was drinking, by having the baby stand next to it and take a few sucks, then taking the baby's mouth away from the boobies and pumping it into buckets. It's such an interesting lifestyle. I found a short article about nomadic life generally that is pretty interesting.
Erdenbat and the lady of the house, milking horses
The goats' turn
Most of the animals are really smart too, as somehow, even after roaming around all day, they return just in time for the evening milking. Zaya told me they come home just after sunset, and sure enough, as dusk settled in, I looked out on the horizon and could see a giant wave of sheep and goats coming home. However, there was one time where we were walking around some river bank around sunset, and noticed 4 random goats jogging after us. Once they caught up to us, they slowed down and just walked with us. It was really cute because the "leader" of their fellowship was just a little guy, obviously younger, but less clueless than the others. I think they thought we would lead them home, because they followed us for a good 10 minutes. But we weren't going to their "home"; we were going to our car. We didn't even know where their home was. So I think we disappointed them when we drove away, leaving them standing and looking around, wondering where the heck they were. Sorry guys. I said MOST of them are smart.
Goats following us
Everything (and everyone) seemed pretty clean, considering there are no showers, washing machines or running water around. It was peaceful that the only sounds were the wind, footsteps and bit of neighing and snorting from the horses (this actually got annoying at night when I couldn't fall asleep because of it). I also had to carry baby wipes every where I went, since I was nervous how my stomach would react to all the dairy from lunch (but apparently it was low lactose).
Their "bathroom sink"
During some of our rest time, Erdenbaat passed me a smooth bottle made out of some kind of stone. It looked like a bottle with magic potions, so I inspected it, nodded and smiled, trying to communicate that it was interesting to me, then passed it back. Then he motioned to me to unscrew the cap, pull out the small spoon (it looked like the little brush at the end of a bottle of nail polish), and put the scooper up to my nose. What? I looked super confused so he took it from me, scooped up some of the powder that was inside the bottle, and stuck it up one of his nostrils. He closed the other nostril with his fingers and inhaled, sucking the brown powder off the scooper. Then he did the same thing in the other nostril. For a minute I waited to see if he would start acting crazy, like it was some drug or something. Nothing happened, so when he offered it back to me, I figured I had to do it. I didn't want to offend him on our first day together. I went through the motions just like he did, put a small pile of whatever it was on the tip of the spoon, and gently sucked it up my nose like a delicate princess. Nothing happened. He laughed and made a strong nose-sucking sound, plugging one nostril, urging me to do the same. So I did, sucking much harder than the first time, and I think it sucked all the way up into my brain. I let out a monstrous sneeze. He laughed again, harder this time, and I gave it back without trying the other nostril. He could tell from the tears in my eyes that I didn't need another hit. Even as I write this, my nose is itching and I have the feeling of pepper in my throat. Zaya couldn't explain what it was at the time, other than saying "it's something from a plant", which could have meant it was anything from mushrooms to cocaine to blueberries. It "tasted" a little bit like cinnamon, and my instincts told me that if it tasted like cinnamon it couldn't be bad for me. Turns out that it was snuff, and it was my first and only experience putting tobacco in my body (until the second time I did it, when saying goodbye to Erdenbat at the airport - but I had to because he was an awesome guy).
Erdenbat and a camp owner inspecting each others' snuff bottles
The three of us shared a tent that night (a guest tent the owners rented out), which was about $5 per person for 3 meals and a bed. There were huge spiders crawling around everything but I just ignored them when I turned off my headlamp. Since there was no running water, I "washed up" with some wet naps I bought in UB. The outhouse was a couple hundred meters from the tent, so going out there in the dark was a bit scary. The weather was cool but comfortable, not needing more than shorts and a long sleeve t-shirt in my sleeping bag (I didn't want to sleep in the blanket that the family provided because who knows who or what else slept in there - but I guess I could ask the same question about the borrowed sleeping bag). I did wake up every morning with strange bug bites all over my body, but I guess it's a normal hazard of sleeping in the desert. After a breakfast of donuts, more milk products, and tea made with cloudy hot water (I tried not to think about why it was cloudy), we were off on the super bumpy roads through fields and fog.
A two "stall" outhouse was a luxury
The next night we stayed at a ger camp, which meant I could charge my iPad! The camps usually turn on the electricity for a couple hours each evening for this, which was nice, so I could watch some movies before bed. All of the camps had very nice people, friendly and attentive, but didn't speak much English. Erdenbat and Zaya napped while I went for a jog around the camp, chasing some camels through the open plains for a picture. I ended up running about 6km chasing them all over (partly because I forgot my camera battery in my tent and had to run back after already reaching the camels...and when I went back to them, they had moved further away). Then I remembered Zaya warning me about snakes, spiders and scorpions and I panicked and returned home as fast as possible. It was nice to have time to sight-see, but also to relax and not worry about anything.
The camels I chased around the desert
I was sitting on the patio in the warm afternoon sun, about to open my iPad, when the camp owner came over to stand by me. I was the only person on a giant patio, so it was kind of awkward. He was staring and smiling at me, so I asked if I could help him with something. Hopefully with something that would make him go away. Then he talked to me in 1 or 2 word sentences, obviously not comfortable communicating in English. It was weird at first, but it turns out he was just trying to be friendly. His young son came over, said "hello", and looked like he wanted to play with my iPad, so I let him take a look. Within 10 seconds he could figure out all the commands to the FIFA soccer game (while I suck at it even though I can read the English commands). He gave his little sister (who looked about 3) a chance to play some Angry Birds, then got frustrated that she couldn't do it, so he took over. I spent the next hour waiting for him to finish. Once in a while he'd whimper and show the screen to me, because it was asking him to click on some buttons to get to the next menu (and he couldn't read it). I just sat and watched, and wandered around taking pictures. At least he played as the Seattle Sounders, and kept winning. Just when I thought I was getting it back, his dad returned and the two of them played while I watched, again. The sun was shining, I had a Golden Gobi beer in hand, my mind was clear, and I actually couldn't have been happier.
I won't be seeing that iPad for a while...
A few places we visited
- Yolyn Canyon - a peaceful hike along a small stream with fresh crisp air. The stream turns to a sheet of ice in the winter (even in the middle of the desert). At the time I was surprised to see horses and a "toilet" that was just a hole in the ground with 4 walls and a roof built around it. I didn't know that I would be using these toilets for most of the next week.
Yolyn Canyon
- Khongoryn Els sand dunes - we tried climbing to the top of them, but they were much higher than they looked from the bottom. I didn't want to get stranded in the sand, so we came back (to see our driver inspecting under the car hood, which is worrisome when it happens in the middle of nowhere).
Zaya #1 on the sand dunes
- Flaming Cliffs - some red rock formations that reminded me of a super miniature Grand Canyon, as well as some sand monuments, and historically they've found many dinosaur bones there. This was really nice to hike around, until our driver forgot to pick us up in the middle of the desert. We climbed on top of small hill to see if we could spot him in the distance, or see anyone that could help us. We saw some people who were out of ear shot, so we jumped around trying to get their attention. A car (not ours) picked them up then drove away, without seeing us. It felt like being in some tragic movie, when the people are so close to being rescued, only to be ignored, and they have to eat each other to avoid dying of starvation. Luckily, after a long, worrisome hour, our driver found us.
Sitting on top of the Flaming Cliffs
While waiting to die in the desert, I took some pictures
A few other tidbits:
- The landscape was changing with every day's drive; from rocks, to sand, to flat lands with tumbleweed, to hills, to red cliffs. It was great just to stare out the window while driving. Here's my album of pictures I took from the car ride.
- My guides always answered the same questions when we were approached by other Mongolians. I could hear their response, the same every time: "No, he's American. From Japan. Yes, I know he looks Mongolian".
- I got used to being called "Oy!" by everyone.
- Here's a question: when you use a translator, are you supposed to look at the translator when you talk, or to the person for whom the speech is intended, even though they don't understand you?
- Erdenbat wore the same clothes the whole time (except sometimes he took off his fleece or his hat). I guess he's used to it after 15 years.
- Sheep have really weird tails, and they are best friends with goats, always running around together.
Look at those weird tails!
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