August 2-9, 2016
I almost didn't go to Georgia.
As we were passing through airport security, I got the phone call that I'll never forget (link). After hearing the news of mom's passing, shattered, confused and in shock, sitting on the other side of airport security, I was seconds away from buying a flight back to Seattle as soon as possible. The only thing certain was that I was NOT leaving on that midnight plane to Georgia (ya, the song is stuck in my head now too). My family needed me in Seattle and I just wanted to be with them.
After a bit of whisky to ease the shock, a McDonald's filet o' fish sandwich (which I ordered because it reminded me of mom), and the comfort and support of Zosia, Jay, and Ash (Jay is famous for his hugs by the way), I called my dad again and decided that I'd continue on the Georgia trip. I'd still get back to Seattle in time for the funeral, and I needed the therapy that spending time in the outdoors with my friends would provide.
So I hid my tears in Zosia's shoulder and got on the plane.
I tried to put on a happy face for Maciek and Kasia, whom I met for the first time in the airport terminal, and tried my best to be in a good mood during the trip. With the constant hugs and understanding from everyone, and an amazing Zosia to lean on, I managed. The guys could sense when I was having a down moment, and their hand on my shoulder, or simple eye contact which said "I'm here for you" meant the world to me. I had to walk away from the group a couple times, just to have a good cry, but all of the distractions of a new and interesting country was beneficial for me. I actually felt that mom would have loved a trip to Georgia. She loved traveling generally. In fact, I felt like she was there with me, from the first glorious sunrise the morning of our arrival in Kutaisi. After the initial guilt of not flying to Seattle, I felt that going on the trip was the right thing to do. This trip was both with her, and for her.
One of the most amazing things about the trip was the planning that Dorota and Noemi (Doremi) put into it. They work for a travel company and have some magical talents, so they put together an "official" 18-page brochure with all of the relevant information we needed. It included daily plans, transportation logistics, photos of the sites we'd come across, ideas for meals and drinks, and even some scheduled fitness. We just had to give them money. Anytime they asked for it. Waaaaaaaaaait a minute. Now that I think about it, they asked for money all the time! Kidding, they were great.
After landing in Kutaisi, we bought tickets in the airport terminal for the 3+ hour mini-van ride (or "marshrutka", which is too hard to say) to Tbilisi, the capital. Doremi were (or was?) already in Tbilisi after traveling in Armenia the week before, waiting for us with open arms.
We saw so many things on this trip that I don't even know where to begin. Tbilisi was a nice place to visit and I had been looking forward to it for a long time. I was so excited that I called a couple of my work colleagues to meet for lunch, and found out that the PwC office is in the heart of the Old Town. I went off to meet them, and planned to join the rest of the group later. The other guys walked around and settled at a cafe to wait for me. When I walked out of the restaurant, I saw all the guys sitting just outside. We had both randomly picked the same place!
It was hot and muggy in Georgia in August, which required several showers each day, but the Pushkin 10 hostel was well accommodating. We got a big room for all 8 of us, and immediately started teasing Dorota for talking to some handsome guys also staying there. We actually planned to make a secret music video of a bunch of clips of her talking to random dudes, then use camera tricks to turn the whole thing into a flirtatious love story. But once she caught on to us, she stopped talking to people. I hope she doesn't read this or know about our plan, so we can do it to her next time.
One of the themes of this trip is that we kept running into Polish people and places. It's probably not a coincidence, since Doremi had been to Georgia before and made some Polish contacts. But we stayed at Polish-owned apartments and hostels, and it seemed that Noemi knew people everywhere. So of course in Tbilisi, we hung out every night at Bar Warszawa drinking cheap shots of cha cha.
Generally you can walk around all of Tbilisi,. but it's also worth a short ride outside of the city to Mtskheta, about 12 miles away, to see one of the Christian centers of ancient Georgia. By the way, it helps if you know Russian (or Georgian) if you want to talk to the taxi drivers.
Svetitskhoveli Cathedral was originally a wood church from the 4th century rebuilt in the 11th century. It's the burial place of Jesus' robe (yes, his robe has it's own burial grounds). We heard a cool story about how a pillar in the cathedral was moved by angels during the night, but I can't remember how it goes (it's also what the name of the cathedral means - living pillar). I was too distracted filming Dorota talking to dudes. So just imagine a cool story about angels moving a pillar.
Compared to Catholic churches, these like Jvari Monastery are more humble, not plated with gold, and somehow seem more authentically old, with stones and fading images. To enter these churches, you have to cover your legs and girls have to cover their hair. They have scarfs and wraps to borrow at the entrance, which I'm sure are super clean.
One important lesson I learned is that in most public toilets, you have to pay to pee. Well, I already knew this, but there was one very strong reminder. I used a public toilet in Mtskheta, but there was no attendant, nor a sign saying how much it was to use the toilet, so I used it, assuming it was free. As I left the toilet, an older lady appeared out of nowhere (seriously, like magic), saying something in a language I didn't understand. It actually scared me a bit because she appeared out of thin air and started yelling at me. She could have been putting a curse on me for all I know. I didn't know if she worked there, or maybe she was a panhandler, or a random church lady walking down the street, or maybe a witch, a ghost or a vampire. I didn't know what she wanted, so I continued to walk back to the group, up some stairs. Suddenly I couldn't move forward anymore because she cast an evil spell, freezing my forward progress. Then I realized she had grabbed the waist of my pants from my back side and was pulling me back down the stairs. Her hand was literally inside my pants near my butt, holding on to me. I turned around and basically said "WTF", but it still wasn't clear what she wanted (by now I could assume she wanted money, but physically "assaulting" me is not the way to get someone's cooperation). I pulled out my wallet and asked her how much, but she turned her head away from me and didn't answer. I mean, it's not fair to her that I was speaking a foreign language in her country, but if she is supposed to collect money, it seems reasonable that there should be a sign with a published price, or that she could communicate what it is. I looked around to make sure there wasn't a sign referencing payment (nor a sign telling me to beware of ghost ladies who like to put their hands in your pants). She started pushing me and grabbing at my wallet, which is another way to get exactly opposite of what you want from me. I started to walk away, having to pry her hands off my pants, without giving her anything. After cooling off a bit, I thought I should have just given her some money. Whatever she wanted, I'm sure it wasn't much, but since she grabbed my pants and basically pulled them down as I walked up the stairs, I don't feel bad about my stubbornness. I saw her somewhere else on the street later on, so it's possible she wasn't actually an official money collector. Maybe she just takes advantage of people who need to use the toilet, pretending she works there. Or maybe she's just an old pervert.
Back in Tbilisi we took the funicular to the top of Mount Mtatsminda, where we visited the 100+ year old Mtatsminda Park. The park is a bit of an institution, having been one of the most popular parks in all of USSR back in the Soviet days. They have many rides and attractions, plus a nice view of the city. We rode a couple rides, and several of us blame Maciek for why we got so wet on the log ride. I can't believe I haven't mentioned this yet, but they have a dish in Georgia with eggplant and ground walnuts, which is super good. At the restaurant Chela in the park, we had it for the 3rd time in 3 days.
I couldn't help but think during the entire trip, what things my mom would have enjoyed here. She would have gone on the log ride with us. She would have loved visiting the monasteries, and she definitely would have laughed at my encounter with the crazy lady.
Although I was happy to spend time in the capital, I was more excited about the countryside and mountains. Our Doremi itinerary said it was time to leave the city, so Noemi picked up the rental van with the steering wheel on the wrong side (which is the right side, ironically), we packed in all of our luggage, and headed out.
Next: Georgia, the Countryside.
I almost didn't go to Georgia.
As we were passing through airport security, I got the phone call that I'll never forget (link). After hearing the news of mom's passing, shattered, confused and in shock, sitting on the other side of airport security, I was seconds away from buying a flight back to Seattle as soon as possible. The only thing certain was that I was NOT leaving on that midnight plane to Georgia (ya, the song is stuck in my head now too). My family needed me in Seattle and I just wanted to be with them.
After a bit of whisky to ease the shock, a McDonald's filet o' fish sandwich (which I ordered because it reminded me of mom), and the comfort and support of Zosia, Jay, and Ash (Jay is famous for his hugs by the way), I called my dad again and decided that I'd continue on the Georgia trip. I'd still get back to Seattle in time for the funeral, and I needed the therapy that spending time in the outdoors with my friends would provide.
So I hid my tears in Zosia's shoulder and got on the plane.
I tried to put on a happy face for Maciek and Kasia, whom I met for the first time in the airport terminal, and tried my best to be in a good mood during the trip. With the constant hugs and understanding from everyone, and an amazing Zosia to lean on, I managed. The guys could sense when I was having a down moment, and their hand on my shoulder, or simple eye contact which said "I'm here for you" meant the world to me. I had to walk away from the group a couple times, just to have a good cry, but all of the distractions of a new and interesting country was beneficial for me. I actually felt that mom would have loved a trip to Georgia. She loved traveling generally. In fact, I felt like she was there with me, from the first glorious sunrise the morning of our arrival in Kutaisi. After the initial guilt of not flying to Seattle, I felt that going on the trip was the right thing to do. This trip was both with her, and for her.
Mom saying hello on the day we arrived
One of the most amazing things about the trip was the planning that Dorota and Noemi (Doremi) put into it. They work for a travel company and have some magical talents, so they put together an "official" 18-page brochure with all of the relevant information we needed. It included daily plans, transportation logistics, photos of the sites we'd come across, ideas for meals and drinks, and even some scheduled fitness. We just had to give them money. Anytime they asked for it. Waaaaaaaaaait a minute. Now that I think about it, they asked for money all the time! Kidding, they were great.
After landing in Kutaisi, we bought tickets in the airport terminal for the 3+ hour mini-van ride (or "marshrutka", which is too hard to say) to Tbilisi, the capital. Doremi were (or was?) already in Tbilisi after traveling in Armenia the week before, waiting for us with open arms.
We saw so many things on this trip that I don't even know where to begin. Tbilisi was a nice place to visit and I had been looking forward to it for a long time. I was so excited that I called a couple of my work colleagues to meet for lunch, and found out that the PwC office is in the heart of the Old Town. I went off to meet them, and planned to join the rest of the group later. The other guys walked around and settled at a cafe to wait for me. When I walked out of the restaurant, I saw all the guys sitting just outside. We had both randomly picked the same place!
It was hot and muggy in Georgia in August, which required several showers each day, but the Pushkin 10 hostel was well accommodating. We got a big room for all 8 of us, and immediately started teasing Dorota for talking to some handsome guys also staying there. We actually planned to make a secret music video of a bunch of clips of her talking to random dudes, then use camera tricks to turn the whole thing into a flirtatious love story. But once she caught on to us, she stopped talking to people. I hope she doesn't read this or know about our plan, so we can do it to her next time.
One of the themes of this trip is that we kept running into Polish people and places. It's probably not a coincidence, since Doremi had been to Georgia before and made some Polish contacts. But we stayed at Polish-owned apartments and hostels, and it seemed that Noemi knew people everywhere. So of course in Tbilisi, we hung out every night at Bar Warszawa drinking cheap shots of cha cha.
Generally you can walk around all of Tbilisi,. but it's also worth a short ride outside of the city to Mtskheta, about 12 miles away, to see one of the Christian centers of ancient Georgia. By the way, it helps if you know Russian (or Georgian) if you want to talk to the taxi drivers.
A Georgian street
Svetitskhoveli Cathedral
Some street next to the cathedral
Svetitskhoveli Cathedral was originally a wood church from the 4th century rebuilt in the 11th century. It's the burial place of Jesus' robe (yes, his robe has it's own burial grounds). We heard a cool story about how a pillar in the cathedral was moved by angels during the night, but I can't remember how it goes (it's also what the name of the cathedral means - living pillar). I was too distracted filming Dorota talking to dudes. So just imagine a cool story about angels moving a pillar.
Jvari Monastery
View from the top
Compared to Catholic churches, these like Jvari Monastery are more humble, not plated with gold, and somehow seem more authentically old, with stones and fading images. To enter these churches, you have to cover your legs and girls have to cover their hair. They have scarfs and wraps to borrow at the entrance, which I'm sure are super clean.
One important lesson I learned is that in most public toilets, you have to pay to pee. Well, I already knew this, but there was one very strong reminder. I used a public toilet in Mtskheta, but there was no attendant, nor a sign saying how much it was to use the toilet, so I used it, assuming it was free. As I left the toilet, an older lady appeared out of nowhere (seriously, like magic), saying something in a language I didn't understand. It actually scared me a bit because she appeared out of thin air and started yelling at me. She could have been putting a curse on me for all I know. I didn't know if she worked there, or maybe she was a panhandler, or a random church lady walking down the street, or maybe a witch, a ghost or a vampire. I didn't know what she wanted, so I continued to walk back to the group, up some stairs. Suddenly I couldn't move forward anymore because she cast an evil spell, freezing my forward progress. Then I realized she had grabbed the waist of my pants from my back side and was pulling me back down the stairs. Her hand was literally inside my pants near my butt, holding on to me. I turned around and basically said "WTF", but it still wasn't clear what she wanted (by now I could assume she wanted money, but physically "assaulting" me is not the way to get someone's cooperation). I pulled out my wallet and asked her how much, but she turned her head away from me and didn't answer. I mean, it's not fair to her that I was speaking a foreign language in her country, but if she is supposed to collect money, it seems reasonable that there should be a sign with a published price, or that she could communicate what it is. I looked around to make sure there wasn't a sign referencing payment (nor a sign telling me to beware of ghost ladies who like to put their hands in your pants). She started pushing me and grabbing at my wallet, which is another way to get exactly opposite of what you want from me. I started to walk away, having to pry her hands off my pants, without giving her anything. After cooling off a bit, I thought I should have just given her some money. Whatever she wanted, I'm sure it wasn't much, but since she grabbed my pants and basically pulled them down as I walked up the stairs, I don't feel bad about my stubbornness. I saw her somewhere else on the street later on, so it's possible she wasn't actually an official money collector. Maybe she just takes advantage of people who need to use the toilet, pretending she works there. Or maybe she's just an old pervert.
Back in Tbilisi we took the funicular to the top of Mount Mtatsminda, where we visited the 100+ year old Mtatsminda Park. The park is a bit of an institution, having been one of the most popular parks in all of USSR back in the Soviet days. They have many rides and attractions, plus a nice view of the city. We rode a couple rides, and several of us blame Maciek for why we got so wet on the log ride. I can't believe I haven't mentioned this yet, but they have a dish in Georgia with eggplant and ground walnuts, which is super good. At the restaurant Chela in the park, we had it for the 3rd time in 3 days.
After the water ride. Yes, Maciek is that big.
Doesn't look like much, but eggplant with nuts is super good
Khinkali is also a must eat
Put it in your mouth all at once, and you look like this
This was called a "Trump Dog". See it?
I couldn't help but think during the entire trip, what things my mom would have enjoyed here. She would have gone on the log ride with us. She would have loved visiting the monasteries, and she definitely would have laughed at my encounter with the crazy lady.
Although I was happy to spend time in the capital, I was more excited about the countryside and mountains. Our Doremi itinerary said it was time to leave the city, so Noemi picked up the rental van with the steering wheel on the wrong side (which is the right side, ironically), we packed in all of our luggage, and headed out.
Next: Georgia, the Countryside.
