Thursday, January 21, 2016

Family history lesson at Zippy's with Uncle Tony and Aunty May


January 17, 2016

The Funai sisters are something pretty incredible, and I'm lucky to be able to call them my family.  Lilly, Alice, and May; all lovable, hilarious, and as sweet as the desserts that come out of their kitchens.  And the fact that they had 5 brothers means they can surely put up with (and dish out) some crap.

You may have already read about Grandma Alice, my dad's mother who passed away in 2015 at the age of 97.  I wrote about her shortly after she passed, and my memories of her are still as vivid as ever.

Family Selfie at Grandma's memorial service

Aunty Lilly lives in Seattle; 104 and still as sassy as ever.  I saw her a few months ago and her personality still fills the room.  Her memory isn't what it used to be, but she still remembers enough to remind me to eat more cookies, in between bouts of giggling and what I can only describe as Aunty Lilly Sassiness.

Aunty Lilly selfie

And on my annual trip to Hawaii this year, I was able to visit Aunty May, the baby of the family, who along with her husband Tony, are going strong at 95 years young.

If Aunty May wants ice cream for dinner, Aunty May gets ice cream for dinner

My dad wanted me to ask Aunty May about her parents (dad's grandparents), since he is trying to put together some book on our family history.  It got me thinking that I never ask my family members about their life outside of the world I already know.  How many of us know how our parents met, or what our grandparents did for work, or what life was like for them when they were young (except for the "fact" that they had to walk to school up hill in the snow both ways)?

If there is one thing I know about Uncle Tony and Aunty May, it's that they love eating at Zippy's.  And why not, because it's a staple on Oahu, and they give a discount to senior citizens.  I called Aunty to make sure they were home before I stopped by, and sure enough, as she was hanging up the phone, I could hear Uncle in the background "Maybe he wants to go to Zippy's for dinner?" Yes, yes I do.

Even at 95, they are still pretty sharp, except that Aunty confused Portland and Poland for a minute.  But let's be honest, a lot of people do that.  When she answered the phone and I said "Hi Aunty, it's Tristan", I half-expected a "Who?" or an "And...?", but instead I got a "Ohh Tristan!  How are you!?  Are you in town?  Come on over!"  They certainly know how to make their family feel special.

Sure enough, after a short chat, we headed over to Zippy's (which they call their second home).  As we got into my rental car, I helped Aunty May into the back seat.  They move a little slower than they used to, but can still get to where they need to go.  As I was helping her, she said "I don't need help, go help Uncle!"  There's that Funai sister sass.  So I reached for Uncle and he promptly shooed me away.  Uncle has a beautiful bamboo cane that was made by his grandson, Andrew.  He walks a bit slow, tapping the cane into the pavement with every step, but still manages.  Combined with his deep, masculine voice, it's like a mix of a tall Yoda (the way he walks) and friendly Darth Vader (the way he talks).  I mean this in the best possible way of course.  When Uncle Tony talks, his voice makes you listen.

In the restaurant it took only about 5 minutes before they saw someone they knew; a guy from Japan who was in town visiting for the PGA golf tournament. Of course they would know some random guy from Japan eating at Zippy's.

Dinner was very educational.  I learned that their granddaughter (my cousin) Karen was pregnant, and that her sister Denise is working for some fashion designer in NYC.  No offense girls, that's awesome, but I probably could have found that out from social media (or you could have just told me!).  But that night I wanted to learn something I couldn't learn from any Facey or Tweety app.

My first question: How did you guys meet?  Aunty May blushed and said it was a secret.  Then she told me that Uncle Tony was her brother George's sergeant in the Army (the boys were in the 442nd together, a WWII regiment made up of mostly Japanese Americans). Uncle Tony never got sent overseas, but George fought in Europe and was captured and held as a POW for what could have been 3 years.  Apparently Uncle George never talked much about it, but since he and Tony had a special bond (since George introduced him to his sister and all), George told him about when he got captured: they heard some noises on the battle field and his superior ordered him to come check it with him.  So they went out, he heard a pop, the other guy dropped dead, and George got captured.  This was real life.

I asked Aunty May about her parents, and she told me about her dad, (Great)-Grandpa Funai, who was born in Japan.  His mother died when he was young and his dad re-married.  After the marriage, Grandpa Funai (as a kid) was sent to a Buddhist boarding school, which he hated.  So naturally he ran away when he was 5 years old, and was found on the streets by a guy named Funai.  This guy ended up adopting him, giving him the name Funai.  So my Great-Grandpa Funai wasn't even born a Funai; he was literally adopted off the street. I already knew about Grandma Funai (his wife), which my Grandma Alice told in her story about life in the interment camp during the War.  Grandma Funai (Alice and May's mom) took her own life in the camp, because it was too depressing and hopeless to live in a prison camp, detained by her own country, the United States of America, just for being of Japanese decent.  My Grandma wrote a short memoir about this, which breaks my heart every time I read it.  Not only for Grandma Funai, but because of the injustices that abounded at the time, and that my dad was born in such an awful place.  All while Tony, George, and many others were fighting for the country that turned its back on them.  Ok, so the internment camp story is for another time.

Similarly, Uncle Tony's dad was arrested the day after Pearl Harbor was bombed, since he was a prominent Japanese businessman living in Hawaii.  He wasn't sent to an internment camp (generally it didn't happen in Hawaii), but to an actual prison, just for having Japanese blood.  Apparently the FBI was following them all around, including Aunty May and Grandma Alice, as they found out later that the feds knew a lot about them. Since my family went through this back in the 1940s and even after the war, it really disturbs me how some ignorant people treat Muslims with this same suspicion and disrespect these days.

By the time we got to this part of the history lesson it was getting late, and we had to go home.  I could have stayed and talked with them for hours (or days), so I'll have to continue the stories next time.  But for a few hours on this Sunday evening, I did what I should have been doing for a long time already; finding out who my family is, and how I got to be here.  After all, everything that's happened in my family is reflected in their personalities and behavior, which inevitably led to my existence and influenced the person I am today.  I should have known this from watching the Star Wars movies, because that's exactly what happens there!

Thinking about this now made me realize something odd: Since Lilly, Alice, and May all lived in different places as long as I've known them, I don't think I've ever seen all three of them in the same place at the same time. I can only imagine that it was something special. 

Monday, January 11, 2016

More Turkey please: Efes and Pamukkale

Oct 19-25, 2015

I've always found DST confusing and annoying, and being in Turkey during the time change this year made it even more confusing.  Turkey, like Poland, was supposed to change the clocks back an hour on Sunday morning the day I flew back to Warsaw.  However, they recently decided to delay the time change by two weeks, but didn't tell me or my phone about it.   When I woke up on Sunday morning to go to the airport, my phone's "automatic" setting said 7:30 (wrongly), but Kevin's said 8:30.  My phone, and probably the phones of many others, changed incorrectly. To make things more confusing, I received a message that my flight time moved from 12:30 to 1:30pm, but it wasn't a "delay".  So really, I had no idea what time it was or when I should be at the airport.  The only thing I can think is that since Poland changed the time, but Turkey didn't, we had to leave one hour later from Turkey, in order to land at the originally scheduled 2pm Warsaw time.  It still hurts my head thinking about it.  BBC said that they delayed the time change so voters could have more daylight during their elections next week. WHAT? 

After 5 years in Poland, I finally got Kevin to come to Warsaw for a few days.  And I only had to promise him two things: 1. that he could wear sweat pants the entire time in Poland, and 2. I'd spend a week in Turkey with him.  That wasn't a hard decision.   
The last time I tried to get Kevin to come to Warsaw, he "forced" me to go to Italy instead.  I say "forced" because that trip was super amazing and I'm glad we went there.  You can read about the best pasta ever, Cinque Terre, and Venice.  
This time, he actually came to Warsaw.  After a chill weekend when he indeed did not change out of his sweat pants, I had to fulfill my end of the deal.  The plan was to spend 6 days in Turkey; a couple days in Ephesus and Pamukkale, then a weekend in Istanbul. If you don't know what Ephesus and Pamukkale are, join the club. I had no idea at the time Kevin suggested them.  Thank goodness for Google Images. 

In order to get some help and to possibly meet up, I contacted every single Turkish person I know in the world (3 whole people).  I told Kevin "don't worry, I have great friends there, they will show us around, take us to the best places, and they'll know what we can do in Ephesus and Pamukkale." Because, you know, it's a small country and it would be easy to meet them somewhere.  Well, that plan didn't work as we didn't get to see any of them.  Kevin thinks I have imaginary Turkish friends.  


First we flew to Istanbul, but bought a separate ticket to immediately take us to Izmir.  We had a 3 hour layover, which seemed necessary because of the silly "visa" process where you have to wait in line to pay $30 for a stamp.  The flight from Istanbul to Izmir was around $25 round trip, even though we bought the tickets only the week before.  It's almost a crime not to fly to Izmir when tickets are so cheap.  From the airport we hired a car service to take us to Selcuk, a town next to the ancient city of Ephesus.  The car service to Selcuk was $50, or the total prices of both of our flights!

We found an apartment on Airbnb in the center of Selcuk for a pretty good price, and the owner, Ali, was awesome.  Airbnb isn't free like Couch Surfing, and you don't sleep on someone's couch (though some Airbnbs offer that!), but if you have the right host, you can still get some personal connection, which is a great part of CS. Ali was everything we could ask for. Ali was awesome because:
- The apartment was in the center of Selcuk and looks out over the ruins of the ancient fortress
- He gave us pastries every morning for breakfast
- He planned our visit to Ephesus, arranging a taxi and loaning us a guide book from his shop (he owns a shop just down the street from the apartment)
- He gave us directions when we needed help and was always available to assist
- His brother and nephew also have shops on the same street, and they treated us like friends every time we walked by
- He invited us to sit in front of his shop and drink tea (or beer) with him every morning and night

- Ali is single, so ladies, let me know if you want the intro. 

With our host Ali

And if that wasn't enough, Ali's story became more impressive. One night when we were sitting in the dark on the shared balcony of the apartment building, a random dude in the shadows crept up and got something out of the closet.  I didn't notice him coming into the room until he closed the closet door, so I jumped and squealed a bit, like a small animal.  He was getting a jacket, and since he was moving slowly, and looked like he had done it before, I quickly decided that he wasn't a burglar or axe murderer.  He also wasn't carrying an axe. And he said hello, so that means he was nice.  

The next morning when we were leaving the apartment, the same guy was walking up the hill towards the apartment and saw us come outside.  He asked if we wanted breakfast.  He had something in his hand and offered it to us.  At first we thought he was a random dude trying to sell us stuff, then I recognized him from the night before. Still no axe, so that was a good sign.  Turns out this is the guy that was bringing breakfast to us every day, leaving it outside our door.  We asked Ali about him and Ali said that this guy used to be homeless and somehow they got to know each other. Ali started letting him stay in the apartment building since he had space (he owns the whole building) and they don't like to see anyone sleeping on the streets.  He didn't ask for anything in return, except that the guy doesn't bring any alcohol or drugs into the apartment, and that he would do some odd jobs for him once in a while.  Anyway, that was 20 years ago.  TWENTY.  And the guy is still there, bringing Ali's guests breakfast in the morning.  Basically Ali is a guardian to him, and the guy just goes about his business all day, staying out of trouble


On the last night, I bought a few things from Ali's store, La Tulip.  I spent more than I normally would on souvenirs (and things were more expensive than in Istanbul), but after a nice few days with Ali, it felt good to give money back to the local economy to help someone trying to make it in the world.  
After a visit into the town of Ephesus (Efes), an ancient Greek city from the 10th century BC, just a short cab ride away, we visited some other sites around Selcuk: St. John's Basilica (6th c.) and Isabey Mosque (14th c.).  But the climax (and biggest downer unfortunately) was the famed Temple of Artemis, one of the 7 Wonders of the Ancient World. It was literally a column and some foundational stones sitting in an open field.  I've always wondered who created this list of "Wonders" that don't even exist anymore (except the Pyramids)...how could the creator of this list know how Wonderful they actually were.  Maybe that's why they're called Wonders...because we wonder why they're on the list.
In Efes (Ephesus)

The Library in Efes

Old amphitheater

The World Famous Temple of Artemis

For food we obviously had a lot of kebab, lamb and ayran (not to be confused with Aryan).  Stray cats and dogs wandered all over the cozy streets of the compact city.  One cat even jumped on my chair while I ate and fell asleep on the space between my butt and the chair back.  I'm sure he was glad I wasn't eating a bean and cheese burrito.   

My sleepy cat friend

Lachmacun and pide

The weather was perfect - 75 degrees and sunny.  People were super friendly, always asking where we were from.  Of course, as usual, after we say "USA", they ask "But where are you FROMMMMM?" Oh, you meant where am I FROMMMMMM, not where I'm from?  I started saying "China" and "Poland" just to make it easier. 
The next item on the list was the 3 hour bus ride to Pamukkale, some hot springs which formed a bunch of white rock next to the ancient city of Hieropolis.  The rocks were gorgeous but unfortunately the water has been drying up over the last few years.  After a few hours exploring the area and eating, we headed back to Selcuk, and soon to Istanbul. 
Tourist in Pamukkale

Overlooking the town

 The weather in Istanbul wasn't amazing, as we spent a lot of the time walking, but looking for shelter at the same time.  One of our stops was Shake Shack, which I didn't expect in Turkey, but it was a wonderful find.  They even had a fried chicken sandwhich which is apparently not easy to get in NYC, with huge lines and limited availability.  So save yourself time and just go to Istanbul!  We ate one while on the way to dinner, because why not. If you ever go to Hamdi for dinner in Istanbul (on the Old Town side of the river), just remember that their appetizers look small when they show you the samples, but the actual dishes are much bigger...and it's especially hard to eat all of it after going to Shake Shack for an appetizer. 

During our time in Istanbul, we wandered around Old Town and all the main tourist spots, overeating at a reckless pace, while trying to stay dry.  On our last night, we had the most disappointing meal of the trip - not because the food was bad (it was pretty good), but because they seem like a big rip off.  The place is called Konak, and it's located on one of the main walking streets.  The menu lists prices for the various meats/skewers, so we thought we were paying this price for the meat.  However, the price was for 100 grams (though the menu didn't say this).  The waiter offered us options of 300, 400 or 500 grams, and since we figured 300 was the lowest, we took 300.  But little did we know, this was triple the price in the menu.  After we made a big hassle and complained, a manager gave us a discount, though we still paid more than we thought we would.  One guy was nicely trying to help, but the others were pretty scandalous.  Although this trickery ruined my meal, it couldn't ruin another great trip of history, culture and delicious food.  

Hagia Sophia

Istanbul tourists