Tuesday, October 29, 2013

Białowieża bison country: by the numbers

October 11-13, 2013

Żubr.  The Polish word for bison.  It's also a really awkward word to try to get your lips and tongue around.  Luckily we get practice here since there is a beer with the same name, as well as a vodka - żubrówka (they add -ówka to the end of words and suddenly it means a tasty treat made from that item - often times alcoholic).  Żubrówka vodka is fortunately not made from actual bison parts, but is known as bison grass vodka because there is a piece of bison grass in it to give it a bit of color (and flavor maybe).  Someone once told me that a bison pees on all of the grass before it goes into the bottles, but hopefully that's just an urban legend.  Actually, probably a lot of things pee on that grass before it goes into the bottle.  Who cares, I still like it, especially with apple juice (I never thought of that combination before coming to Poland, but it's very popular).  Anyway, since bison show up in Polish culture a lot, it seemed fitting to visit the part of the country where they live.  And Ken and Marta had the idea that we should get a small group to go.  What started out as just a few of us suddenly turned into a big group.  So off we went (of course, with some Żubrówka).  Mark, Ewa and I left Warsaw together expecting to be first to arrive.  But somehow we were almost last.

Białowieża

There were 14 of us in the group, and we took 4 cars, had 2 great dogs, and spent 2 nights in a huge house in Swinoroje that Marta found for us.  It was great that there were so many nice people to take care of me, since I was physically unable to do much with my arm injury (actually I was totally fine, just faking it so people would cater to my every request).  They cooked for me, tied my shoes, dressed me, and generally took care of me like I was a small child.  Ok, so nobody dressed me, I did it myself, because I'm actually a big boy.

Excited to see bison!

We didn't have much of an agenda, except to relax, walk in the Białowieża forest (the oldest forest in Europe), and enjoy the house and company.  I guess we had false expectations of seeing bison roaming the fields from our living room window, because there are only 500 in the whole region.  When we told our forest tour guide that we wanted to see bison, he said with a straight face "There's been a misunderstanding. If you want to see żubr, go to the zoo".  And that was the end of our dream (but we did go to the zoo and saw bison at least).  But only 500?  That was a surprise.  I guess there used to be many thousands, then it dwindled down to basically none because of hunting, until protection and controlled breeding brought them back into existence.

We wanted to see this in the wild 

But settled to see them in the zoo


Speaking of numbers, I'll tell you about the trip through these numbers.

1 - As in Uno, a game we played til the wee hours (Renata cheated, and when she didn't win, she threatened to dig some graves for us in the backyard).

2 - The number of Romanian feet dancing on the dining table while others were trying to play Pictionary on said table.  

3 - The number of items our waiter delivered to us in the first hour during lunch after the forest walk.  As in one beer, one water, and one Coke (not counting the 3 tea cups with no water).  In an HOUR.  For 11 people.  We went to a fancy restaurant called Carska, in an old train station, where the Russian Tsar used to go.  We were all tired and hungry, and the service at this place was the world record's worst.  We were in the private back room (which we thought was a good sign), and there was a private-private room that people had to walk through our room to get to.  For every 4 times the waitress went to the private-private room, our waiter came only once (and every time the other waitress opened the door you could hear everyone breathe in the air of hope, then breathe out the disappointment as she politely said "nope, not for you" and entered the private-private room, making everyone in there happy).  And generally our guy didn't do anything even when he came into our room.  He even talked back to us when we complained about how long it was taking ("this isn't a milk bar" was my favorite response of his, and it was kind of funny so I wasn't too mad).  Of course nobody was happy, but once the bread came out (over an hour into our stay), our moods shifted and all was well in the world.  The food turned out to be pretty good (but expensive), and not worth putting up with the service.  It had us reminiscing about the previous world's worse service in Ukraine.  

3.5 - The number of hours it should have taken Mark, Ewa and me to get to Białowieża.

6 - The number of hours it actually took Mark, Ewa and me to get to Białowieża from Warsaw. At least by going the long way through Białystok, it meant 2.5 more hours of Nirvana and Ace of Base sing-a-longs in the car

9 - The number of countries represented by our group. Agnieszka, Ela, Renata, Marta and Ewa from Poland, Russian Julia, Scottish Mark, English Alan, English/Martian Jay (people from Mauritius are called Martians right?), Italian Silvia (insert hand gesture here), Romanian Cristina, Aussie Mark, and Ken and me from US.  I love the mix! (updated - sorry Julia!)

O - That's not a number, that's the shape of a vinyl record.  And vinyl records are still cool.  The house had a record player (that many of us didn't know how to operate) with dozens of classic albums, and it reminded me of playing records at my parents house growing up.  For some reason the only record I can remember listening to as a kid was John Denver and the Muppets Christmas album.  I even have the album on my iPod today.  Don't judge until you listen to it!

10 - The number of zloty I lost to Scottish Mark, playing Poker from 3 to 5 am. Why didn't we just go to sleep?

11 - As in 11pm, the time Aussie Mark had to go to bed after he fell backwards in his chair having too much fun.  Ewa gave him the look, and Mark knew it was time.  And I mean the look of "YOU need to go to bed", not the look of "Hey baby, let's go to bed".   

15 - The number of pieces Aussie Mark cut my schabowy into at dinner one night, because I couldn't cut it myself with my injured arm (thanks dad!).  We found a GREAT meal at a truck stop in the middle of nowhere, where the food was super cheap and was made from grandma's kitchen (not my grandma, a Polish grandma).  Oh, how I love Polish grandmas (and my grandma too).   

18 - The number of wheels on the big semi-trucks, or "tir", that stop so the drivers can eat at the truck stops we passed.  "Tir" is the Polish word for semi-truck.  And to prove how simple the Polish language can be, a nice lady in a short skirt that stands on the side of the road waiting for a truck driver to pick her up is called a "tirówka" (see note above about adding "-ówka" to the end of words, and how it turns a word into a tasty treat).  If you don't understand the connection between these ladies and truck drivers, let's just say they are looking for a ride in more ways than one.  

19 - The IQ of the man who stopped his car in the middle of the highway to get out and yell at us for flashing him.  He was making some dangerous passes, so Mark flashed the lights to let him know to stop being an idiot (I guess don't do that next time, Mark!).  Anyway, we showed him who was boss by driving around his car on the shoulder and driving away.  A-hole.  But I guess he could have chased us down and axe-murdered us...luckily he didn't, and we got home safe and sound.  At least we know what not to do next time.  

120 - The number of minutes we spent with the guide in the forest.  He started off really grumpy, yelling at us for not knowing where the entrance to the forest was, seemingly trying to run away from us after taking our money, and generally being unpleasant.  But after we stepped into the forest, he transformed and magically became a very friendly and passionate guy, and the tour turned very interesting, listening to him talk about trees, mushrooms that look like a penis, the forest animals, and the history of the region.  Yea, they really did look like a penis.  Of course I took a picture, but I don't want to prove how immature I am by showing it to you. 

140.6 - The number of miles my friend Kelly swam, biked and ran in her Ironman race in Kona, in honor of her late friend Mari.  The race was during our night time on this trip...she started just before we had dinner, and finished just before we ate breakfast the next morning.  I tracked her on GPS and could watch her progress throughout the race...the technology is pretty cool! If you haven't heard Kelly's story, check it out

200 - The number of pierogi the Polish girls (and foreign helpers) cooked for dinner, using the mushrooms Ewa, Mark and Aga picked (Ewa is an expert mushroom picker).  And when I say "cooked", I mean that they had a dance party to Saturday Night Fever, while rolling and folding pierogi.  It was quite impressive. Afterwards, Ewa admitted that if we didn't boil the mushrooms for at least 20 minutes, we would have all gotten sick. So I think the dance party saved us. 

It took them about an hour to find 2 billion mushrooms

Pierogi party

They're supposedly cooking right now


587 - The number of times everyone said "Go Huskies" during our card games to support UW's game against Oregon (I got to make a rule in the game and made everyone say it at the end of every sentence).  Unfortunately we lost. Go Huskies.  

1,000,000 - The number of vibrant shades of red, orange and yellow that encompassed us all over the forest.  It's hard to beat the colors of autumn.

Colors of autumn

0 - The number of people out of  my 13 travel companions who responded to my request to quote them for this blog. So if you want to know their thoughts, I guess you'll have to ask them.  And if you think this post is boring, it's obviously their fault. 

0 - Also the number of days I want to wait til the next fun big group trip, although I guess I have to stay in Warsaw and work sometimes...  But I'm pretty sure you'll be hearing about another one soon.  Go Huskies!

Group hug, until next time...

Tuesday, October 8, 2013

UK wedding and countryside

"Where's my passport?", asked Mike, at 5:45 am on the day of our departure to London.  Our taxi was supposed to come in 15 minutes. I ignored him, because I had only a couple hours of sleep and was busy packing my stuff (and it's fun to ignore him).  Kristin was in the other room, getting ready as well, packing up her 17 suitcases.  Next thing I notice, all of Mike's clothes are scattered around the living room, and he is checking all of the pockets, compartments, jackets and pants that he can find.  "I haven't taken it out since last week when we went to Krakow".  There's no panic in his voice, just the sound of a sleepy hangover.  So does he really not have his passport?  Apparently not.  Uh oh.  My first thought was that it might still be on the train to Krakow.  But we didn't take out our passports, so that wasn't likely.  I started looking under couches, rugs, TVs, books, bicycles, basically everywhere a passport would NOT be, but I figured it was better than just standing there watching Mike slowly grow into a panic.  The cab was on its way, and he obviously wasn't ready. He checked everywhere.  Then he checked everywhere again.  Note: HE checked "everywhere".   As in only he can confirm that he looked "everywhere", whatever that means.  He only had a small roller bag and a small backpack, so there weren't too many places the passport could be hiding. 

We brainstormed all the places the passport could be, and he kept repeating in his hungover morning voice "Where is it?  I really have no idea" (he's from Quebec so you should say it with a French accent...but a Canadian French accent, because it's different).  He got on the phone with his Embassy (Canada, not France) to find out if he could travel without it.  Even though we were going to somewhere in the EU, he still needed his passport since he didn't have a European ID.  Already 30 minutes late, we decided to go to the airport anyway, to see if there was a way he could travel without it.  Kristin and I checked in, but then I realized that if Mike couldn't travel, I would have to stay in Warsaw with him.  So the agent at the check-in desk convinced me not to leave my bag yet, and to drop it off later if we decided we would travel.  Mike visited the LOT airlines office, then called his Embassy again, before Kristin and I listened to the bad news.  He couldn't fly and he'd have to apply for a new visa at the Embassy in Warsaw on Monday (it was Saturday), with the likelihood of getting the new passport a couple days after that. Basically, that was not good news.  We were going to England for Trish and Stu's wedding on Thursday, so we might at least make it in time for the wedding, but his "future wife" and 1 year old baby were already on their way to London to meet him that day.  They wouldn't be happy.  


We suggested that he check the pockets in his bags again, as now that he was a little more awake, and there was different lighting in the airport, maybe he would find it.  But he insisted he already checked "everywhere".  So, we accepted our fate, and said good-bye to Kristin, as she made her way to the gate, telling her we'd probably see her in a few days.  In my head I was thinking about all the fun we'd be missing out on in UK (but secretly I was glad I would have time to finish a bunch of work I had to do).  As we walked away, Mike made the inappropriate comment: "wouldn't it be funny if the plane crashed and we were supposed to be on it?".  No, actually it wouldn't be funny at all!  He wasn't serious.  At least I don't think he was.  Actually he probably was, but I'm going to pretend he wasn't.

I remembered someone told me that if you don't use your non-refundable flight ticket, it might be possible to at least recover the taxes.  So I went to the LOT ticketing desk to cancel the flight, to try to get some money back, and to figure out options to book the next flight.  I asked the agent if it was cheaper to book a new flight, or to pay the change fee, and she was looking into it.  She said it would be better to just buy a brand new ticket so I was about to tell her to cancel my existing ticket, and we'd just buy new ones when Mike got his passport.  Tickets were going to be around $300, which wasn't too bad for last minute flights.  Then I heard a soft, embarrassed voice behind me (in a French accent): "Tristan...".  I turn around, and standing there, with his dumb Canadian passport in his dumb Canadian hand, is dumb Canadian (French) Mike, with a dumb French-Canadian smile on his face.  I wanted to Canadian slap him.  If he had found it 5 seconds later, my ticket would have been cancelled, and I would have had to buy another one.  But I smiled, turned to the nice lady helping me, said "uhhh, nevermind" and within 2 seconds started running to the check-in counter.  It was closing in 10 minutes, and I still had to check my bag!  And of course, the line was HUGE.  Mike didn't have to check anything, and he already had his boarding pass, so while I was standing in line waiting to drop my bag, dumb Canadian Mike kept asking me "why are you taking so long?"  How not-awesome would it have been if he finally found the passport, but then I missed the flight because I couldn't check my bag in time, because the lady told me not to do it the first time?  Luckily, I got to the front with about a minute to spare, and the same lady who helped me before welcomed me: "I'm glad you're back, what happened?".  I explained that we could fly now because my friend found his passport in the last hour.  She didn't understand what I meant by "found his passport",  At the airport?  How is that possible?  Is he a dumb French Canadian?  The concept of him finding his passport at the airport didn't make any sense to her.  Nor to me, for that matter.  Only dumb French Canadian Mike could FIND his passport at the airport, after losing it somewhere else.  But anyway, we made our flight, and the week in UK began.  And I made him take back his earlier comment about the plane crashing. 

Apparently, the passport was in a secret pocket in his backpack that even he didn't know about.  The passport fairy must have put it there.  



+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

I was looking forward to this trip for a long time.  Mike and Kristin spent a week in Poland with me, then we were going to meet a bunch of other friends from all over the UK and US for the wedding.  We all know each other from our days working together in San Jose, CA and we've been on several trips in different corners of the world together.  The plan was to spend a night in London, a few days in the country side, go to the wedding, then visit Megan's family in Wales for the weekend.  There were 8 of us travelling together, plus Mike and Pascale's little girl, Amanda.  Marcie, Michael, and Marilyn made 8. 


I don't know how Mike left this little one to come to Poland for a week

We had scheduled out roughly what we were going to do and where we were going to stay for the week, and lucky for me, someone else was in charge.  I was pretty busy with work and other stuff that I didn't have much chance to do any planning.  Luckily, I was able to just show up, get into Mike's rental car, sleep where people told me to sleep, and everything was taken care of.  After lunch on the day we arrived, we spent most of the afternoon taking a nap, since everyone had flown in on red-eyes from North America, and we were going to have to stay up all night to party with Trish and Stu.  We joked that it was a combination bachelor/bachelorette party (which they call stag and hen do's in UK), so a combined party would be a "hag party".  It was funny at the time, so it's ok for you laugh a little.  Our hotel was near Trafalgar Square, which meant easy access to lots of shops, food, bars, and stuff to keep us entertained for the day we were in London. I definitely prefer the "cute" streets of London and not the huge attractions, and we got a little of that.  It's always a shock to remember how small Warsaw is compared to these huge cities.  My favorite part about it was that we found a Chipotle, and I was able to get a burrito for breakfast on the morning we left. I was their first customer, standing outside their door 10 minutes before they opened, leaning against the door, with my forehead and nose on the glass.

The dinner and party was fun, at a place called Little Italy in Soho.  The 8 of us met with Trish and Stu, and another friend who lived in San Jose with us, Cath, also joined.  She was visiting her family in UK but lives in San Diego.  After dinner the place turned into a dance club with tons of bachelorette parties (so there was a really good ratio), with 70s and 80s music.  The only downside was that a shot of vodka was either 10 or 15 GBP, depending on the brand.  For 10 GBP you can buy a bottle of vodka in a bar in Warsaw.  I guess we weren't in Warsaw anymore.  But you do get free water in UK, which we don't get in Poland, so that basically made up for the high prices.  No.  No, it didn't. 

I still don't know what I'm supposed to do with this

The next day we went back to the airport to pick up rental cars and took off to the Cotswolds.  The Cotswolds are an area in England with rolling hills and gorgeous landscapes that is literally classified as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, according to Wikipedia (seriously, that's a real thing). We stopped in Windsor on the way,to visit the Queen (the flag was up so I guess she was home) on this wet and windy day (but that's not news, it's the UK).  The one surprise is the food we ate was really good.  Meat pies and, well, meat pies, were what I liked.  Amanda the baby had the duck for lunch, as she does (seriously...she eats better than I do).  We drove to our cottage in Willersey without any problems driving on the wrong side of the road (thanks Mike!).  The buildings don't have house numbers so they give the houses funny names, like Yew Tree Cottage (ours) and Turnpike Terrace (they sound like names from video games).  The cottage was really big, with everything we needed.  I slept on the sofa bed downstairs, far away from the snoring, coughing and baby noises.  So even though I didn't have a proper bed, I probably got the best sleep.  We stayed there for 3 nights, playing in iPads, or visiting the village pubs each night ("pubbing", as we call it) - the New Inn and the Bell Inn.  When we went in the New Inn, we obviously looked out of place because everyone stopped and looked at us.  They were really nice in the end, but we felt a bit like we were intruding.  When there are only 2 pubs in the village, and nothing else is open, I guess they get to know everyone.  One entertaining thing was that a drunk "regular" asked Mike if he was Needledrop.  We were all really confused, thinking he was making some weird English joke (or maybe we didn't understand his accent, since English people don't speak English very well).  Turns out Needledrop is a blogger who this guy follows.  He pulled up a picture of him and we all laughed for the next 3 days straight.

The Bell Inn, in Willersey

Pascale and Needledrop

Mike  

Often when you think of places in the world that would be "easy" to visit, you think about countries where they speak English.  Naturally that means it's easier to communicate, read signs and menus, and figure out what is going on around you.  But not really here.  I mean, do they even speak English in England?  I'm not sure.  They use weird words, speak in a weird accent, and all of the town names are tongue twisters. Just a few places we saw along the way: Stow-on-the-Wold, Moreton in Marsh, Evenlode, Chipping Campden, and Aston Subedge.  Like most English towns or street names, they are probably all pronounced completely different than they appear.  Seriously though, do people actually say "I'm thinking of stopping for lunch in Moreton in Marsh" or "The Ikea in Stow-on-the-Wold is really nice"?  Why can't they have normal, easy-to-pronounce names like Kazimierz Dolny and Nowy Dwór Mazowiecki?

In order to find to some smart people to talk to about their so-called English language, we headed to the famous town of Oxford.  I didn't realize it, but Oxford is home to many different colleges, not just one main one.  And the buildings look like Hogwarts!  I felt smart just being there, and found myself muttering "Expelliarmus" from time to time (you're a nerd if you know what that means).  We learned a bit about the strange names here, in that the name Oxford (from 1100 years ago), comes from the combination of oxen and ford (river crossing), because that's what used to happen there.  Ok, so, that actually makes sense.  1 point for England.  Another weird named place we went to is Stratford Upon Avon (the river is called Avon).  Of course, this is where Shakespeare was from, born there in 1564.  You probably didn't know he was that old, since he married Anne Hathaway, and she still looks pretty good for her age (although I didn't like when she cut her hair short in Les Miserables).  Wait a minute, is she French or English?  Anyway, we did the "Stratford Town Walk" tour for 5 GBP around the city, with a very funny older British guy.  I think all older British guys are funny...something about the accent and the fact you can't understand it, but they speak very confidently, and other people laugh, so it must be funny.   I picked up a book they recommended about the origin of the idioms that we use, and how Shakespeare was very influential in those (like something being "Greek to me", tongue tied, or vanishing into thin air).  

Oxford 

Shakespeare's house

Stratford upon Avon

One cool chick

Another educational tidbit is that the term "shire" basically means an area of small towns.  Apparently it was not invited by the Hobbits.  So a lot of names in England end with -shire, meaning it's the bigger region of a collection of towns (or villages), like a county.  So Worcestershire is actually a shire that includes the town of Worcester, and it's also where Worcestershire sauce is from.  And that's why we pronounce it differently than it's spelled (Worchester, instead of Worchestersure), because the English don't speak English!

Stonehenge and Bath were a couple other stops during the week.  The Stonehenge audit guide was interesting, but didn't really say much other than "we don't know why or how they built it".  It's still pretty amazing to see.  In Bath, the group walked around while I worked in a coffee shop (nothing interesting to say about that).

Amanda loves Stonehenge
 
Even after all these adventures, the main attraction was Trish and Stu's wedding.  We checked into our hotel (the Talbot Inn in Somerset), a nice country inn, with super friendly staff, about an hour before we had to head out.  Living in Poland, I miss places with super friendly staff who actually make you feel like anything is possible, and they actually want to help the customer (you know, like do their job).  We basically had 45 minutes to get ready for the wedding, then headed over to Babington House, a gorgeous place for a ceremony.  It looked like something out of some English movie in the 1900s.  And the wedding itself was great.  The speeches had me dying of laughter (after you figure out what they're saying, those English are so funny!).  We looked at the menu and thought we'd have to choose out of a selection of 3 starters, 3 mains and 3 desserts, but in fact we got all of them.  And not to be outdone by Polish weddings, they also had food and drinks and dancing until 3am (the only thing missing was Polish vodka).  I got a side ache while dancing because I ate so much...I didn't even know that was possible.  We partied all night, and the happy couple was there with us til the end.  They must have been exhausted, but Trish was able to do a little Irish jig with her sisters and mom, and hang out with us til the last person dropped (and most of her 8 siblings stayed til the end as well - yes, there are 9 of them...an Irish family!).  Since we came from all over the world - England, Canada, East Coast, West Coast, Australia, and of course Poland, they wanted to spend the time with us.  We had all scattered after finishing work in San Jose (3-5 years ago), and it just goes to show how much we wanted to be there with them, because they're an amazing couple - the nicest and most accommodating people.  One thing I appreciated about their wedding is that it was on a Thursday, which is a great idea.  After the wedding, you still have the whole weekend to recover! It's great!

 
Talbot Inn

Are you kidding me with that wedding chapel?

Trish getting jiggy

On hangover Friday we packed up our stuff and headed to Megan's family in Wales (in Rhoose, a village close to the capital of Cardiff).  When we crossed the border into Wales (it's a different country, you know), all of the signs started having even more funny, more unpronounceable words on them. It was like we just went into a strange alien planet, with subtitles. Her parents were lovely and accommodating to let all 8 and a half of us stay there.  Her mom even granted our wish by cooking cottage pie (the beef version of shepherd's pie) and beef cobbler for dinner. It was so awesome I couldn't sleep because my stomach was too full.  Sitting next to Marcie I was always tempted to help her eat her leftovers.  Bad idea!  But also a great idea. 

English hangover breakfast, minus the beans

What?

Someone's cat was walking on the keyboard again

The next day, Megan's dad took us on a tour of Cardiff, first to St. Fagan's castle, next to the open air Welsh History Museum.  One of the guys who used to live in the castle was named Other.  I thought it was that one, but it was the Other one.  I laughed for about 5 minutes, until the security guard-slash-tour guide told me that you don't pronounce it like that.  We thought he was the security guard (he was dressed like one), because he was just standing there staring at nothing.  But once I started giggling at the guy named Other, he corrected me and made a 10 minute speech about the history of the house and the family that lived there.  It was actually pretty interesting, but then I started laughing again.  Sorry to anyone named Other.  The "house" itself was just like Downton Abbey, with sitting rooms that they didn't need, huge bedrooms on display, servants areas with bells that ring when someone needs something, a big kitchen where all the cooks and helpers made the feasts, and on the wall was posted a list of duties for Mr Carson the butler, Mr Bates the valet, Mrs Patmore the cook, and all the maids and footmen. I guess it used to be like that in real life (and maybe still is in some places).  The open air museum was also really cool, with different buildings and styles to show different parts of history, farming, and infrastructure.  Definitely more interesting than walking through a building seeing small scale models and pictures.  In this museum, we actually got to go inside all of the exhibits.

St. Fagan's castle

We also took a walk around Cardiff Harbor, which is very modern, and the city center, which is more old-style traditional, with an 11th century castle in the middle of it. We had a good lunch at the harbor, but an even better Indian dinner at Raj Kinara with Megan's parents and Aunt/Uncle, near their house. They were all super friendly and the food was fantastic.  The United Kingdom's national dish is actually Chicken Tikka Masala, so I'm not surprised that the Indian food is good.  Even the power outage while we were waiting for our food didn't dampen the mood.  It was out for entire meal, and it got a bit hot and stuffy, but generally everything went on like nothing happened. Nobody in the restaurant complained, nobody left, even those waiting to be seated continued to wait.  The servers worked extra hard to make everything work, and in the end, we enjoyed the meal by candlelight. I had some lamb and potatoes in a tomato-based minced lamb sauce (lots of lamb in Wales), with rice, salad and naan. I could eat that every day. Every day until my heart stopped I guess.  It was our last big meal in the UK, as the next morning we headed back to London to head home.  It was a great 8 days, and a great way to see more of the UK countryside.  I'm glad that the trip that almost didn't happen, ended up happening without any major hitches.  There's still a lot more of the UK to see outside of London, and I hope to get to more in the future.

Cardiff Harbor

Dining in the dark