Wednesday, February 27, 2019

How to survive a safari

I quickly got undressed when I heard him call out. "I'm here! Are you ready?" I hurriedly kicked off my socks and the rest of my clothes, slipping on my flip flops.  I didn't want to make him wait; after all he was doing me a favor.  "One second please," I begged.  I pulled the curtain back and stepped in the shower, nervously proclaiming "OK, I'm ready!" and he let me have it.  

I waited a few seconds in the chilly air, until the hot water finally started pouring down on me.  I lathered up quickly, not knowing how long it would last.  I shouted back to the nice man "OK, you can stop for now.  But I need to rinse still, so don't go away yet!"  He couldn't hear me.  "How much hot water do I have left?"  I had to repeat a couple times, loud enough for everyone in the camp to hear.  "10 liters," came the response finally.  I realized I asked the wrong question, because I had no idea how much shower you can take with 10 liters of water.  Is that enough to savor the warm feeling, to let the water run down your face and the back of your neck for a few seconds?  Or did I have to hurry and risk being left with soapy hair?  After another minute, I shouted back to him "OK, hot water, please!"  I didn't take any chances.  I rinsed as fast as I could, but still felt as good as new.  After a day long game drive in the hot Serengeti, I was happy to be clean.  

"Thank you, I'm done!  But now can you do my wife?"

I guess I should explain that the guy was standing OUTSIDE of the tent.  Every time we'd ask for hot water, he'd pour some in a small bucket, use a pulley to raise the bucket high enough so gravity would force the water down a tube and into the shower stall which was a separate part of our tent.  He couldn't see inside (I hope), so it wasn't as creepy as it might sound.  But it also wasn't the least awkward thing I've ever done, shouting to a stranger to "give me more" while naked in a shower.    

The black tank is for toilet/sink water, while the small bucket on a pulley was used to deliver hot water for the shower in the tent

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We learned a lot on our recent safari in Tanzania, visiting Arusha NP, Serengeti NP, and Ngorongoro Crater, so we thought we’d share a few tips.  Not only on how to make your shower the least awkward as possible, but generally the best way to survive a safari.

The first assumption is that you actually want to survive a safari.  If you prefer to get chewed up by a pack of hyenas, trampled by a disgruntled buffalo, or gored in the face by a rhino, all for an awesome viral video, that's also understandable.

The most important thing is to hire a guide to whom you can ask stupid questions and bother with things he/she has heard a thousand times already. They will do their best to act interested when you excitedly tell them you saw a monkey scratching his butt or an elephant rolling in the mud. Or a gazelle just standing there. Imagine if someone started yelling to you how they just saw a Polish guy eating pierogi.  I see this every day, but they don't see it often in Africa.  A POLISH GUY!  HE WAS WITH HIS BABY AND DRINKING WATER!!!!!  AND THEN HE LAID DOWN AND IT WAS SO CUTE!!!!!  Now YOU try to act interested when someone says that.  Not easy.  That's how hard they work to make you feel special.

Guides are also important because somehow they have GPS in their brains to get around the parks without any signs or directions. I felt like we were driving in circles the whole time, but Ben (from Shemeji Safari Tours) always knew exactly where we were, where the animals were, and how much fuel we had left in the car to get home. Actually, maybe we WERE driving in circles.

Cheers to our guide, Ben!

Now that the obvious point is out of the way, here are our tips.

Swahili language
Here are a few words you need to know:
-Jambo means "hello", and everyone will say it to you. They are not calling you fat (jumbo), nor offering you a fruit smoothie (Jamba juice). Smile and offer an awkward “heyyyy” like I always do.
-Mambo is the plural of jambo and used interchangeably. I laughed about 50 times thinking that "mambo jambo" are real words. I also enjoyed the 5th time someone said “mambo” to us. “That was Mambo number 5!” I giggling to myself.
-Simba is the Swahili word for "lion". This leaves me with mixed feelings since it means our favorite Disney hero had a pretty boring name. Is that the best that Mufasa could think of? It's like if we called our kids "child" and "human".  Are they gonna tell me now that Sebastian is French for “worrisome crab” and Mulan is Mandarin for “awesome warrior princess who sometimes dresses like a boy”?
-Safari refers to any kind of "journey"; not only for animal watching. So I decided to call my daily walks to work "safaris".
-Asante is “thank you”.  Asante for reading this far.
-Shilling is the local currency. No wonder the waiter ran away when I offered to give him 10,000 “shingles”
-Karibu means “welcome”. You will hear this a lot because the people (in Tanzania at least) are incredibly welcoming
-Rafiki means “friend”. I like this reference because I loved Rafiki in the Lion King.  I got the warm and fuzzies the first time I watched the opening scene when he walked thru the crowd all serious and important, and gave Mufasa a warm hug.
-Pumbaa doesn’t mean anything but everyone calls warthogs “pumbaas”. This is fun, but why don’t they call any other animals from Lion King their character’s names? Timon? Nala? Zazu?

The little pumbaas were so adorable!

Clothing and shelter
When you're on safari, you are obviously spending a lot of time in nature.  Wear clothes you don’t mind getting dirty or stained by the pen you used filling out the immigration form at the airport but lost the cap and put it in your pocket. Also, safari trucks have tops or sides that open up so the dirt is always coming into the car. You’ll have a nice brown or red layer on everything. Please also cover your camera and phone to prevent damage.

Obviously you want to wear stylish and breathable khaki hiking pants, which can convert into shorts.  They look cool, are temperature cool, cover your legs when necessary, and are easy to wash and dry overnight. Don’t worry if they’re too long because I can show you how to use rubber bands around your ankles to prevent them from dragging on the ground. This also prevents mosquitoes from sneaking up your pant legs. Maybe consider a bigger size because you will eat a lot and get no exercise because you’re sitting in the car for 10 hours a day. You will probably get fat.

How cool do we look?

My own brilliant invention.  You're welcome.  Except wear long socks. 

A light weight, breathable long sleeve safari shirt is optional if you want to look even cooler. I'm still not sure if it's better to have the same exact color as your pants, or to have some variety.  You could actually survive with just t-shirts in the day and a sweatshirt or light jacket at night. But please also consider if your arms might get sunburned, and if so, having sleeves could be useful. I prefer technical running race shirts, to show off achievements from my past, but also because they’re easier than cotton to wash, dry and reuse.

If staying in a tented lodge (a huge tent with a bathroom and bed), you might need long sleeves when sleeping. It gets cold at night in the bush and if a hyena or buffalo comes into your tent, you might need to run outside to save yourself while your wife is still trying to find her jacket. This didn’t happen to us, but I was prepared.

Sunglasses and a hat from your favorite sports team are important, just in case someone notices it and you can talk about your favorite sports. But we wouldn’t know because nobody wanted to talk to me about the Huskies, nor Zosia about the Mariners.

Go local sports teams!

Alternatively you can buy a full safari brimmed hat that you will probably never wear again after the trip, because you're self conscious that people would ask you why you are wearing that stupid hat to a baseball game or to the shopping mall. If you don’t have a full brimmed hat, bring a scarf or something to cover your neck in the sun. Obviously sunblock is also important, unless you don’t like the feeling of sunblock on your skin, in which case you can just get burned and complain about it later. Not that this happened to anyone on our trip whose name starts with a Z.

We saw people wearing hiking boots, but we just wore running shoes.  Unless you plan some hard core hiking (or it's really wet), you don't need anything special.  And bring flip flops for inside your tent or your room, as well as in the showers. They aren’t dirty, but they don’t feel super clean either. Ideally, steal some house slippers from the hotel where you have a layover (I recommend Doha) and use those.

Protection of self and property
If you go in the winter, the shops in your home town might not be selling mosquito spray, so you should definitely pay a lot of money to buy at least four different types of spray online, because you’re not sure if 50% DEET, 25% DEET or non DEET is more effective and better for your skin and clothes. It's better to just buy everything, and pay a crap ton for fast shipping.  A pro tip is to spray repellent on old strips of cloth and wrap these around your ankles and wrists (seriously).  It's good to overreact because in the end you might only use 1/3 of one bottle, so now you have several unused bottles of spray to use for the next several exotic trips.

We actually have a fifth unused bottle as well.  SMH.

Every hotel and rest area we came across had western toilets and stocked toilet paper, but you never know when you might have to squat in the literal bush. I actually peed when staring a lion in the face.  Not in my pants though, I'm just saying that you never know when you might have to go.  You might want to carry some extra TP around to not recreate problems from previous trips, in case you’ve ever had such problems on the side of a hill next to a highway in Georgia (the country). Also bring wet wipes to wash up before and after eating picnic lunches in the middle of the park.

And chocolate melts in your pocket when it’s hot out. Oops.

Preparation of your mind and body
Do some squats to train before the trip. You will stand up from your seat to look out of the top of the car at least 50,000 times.

You'll stand up a lot to look out of the open roof and pretend you're petting a lion

Get your vaccinations and bring malaria pills.  It turns out that nobody in Tanzania or Zanzibar checked our vaccinations, but apparently they could have.  Nothing is actually required unless you come from a place that has yellow fever.  You usually have to take malaria pills for a week after the trip is over, so that's fun.  Luckily we didn't have any stomach problems during the trip, but after we got home, the malarone pills were beating up our stomachs.

You might not always have high water pressure and hot water. To prepare for this, you should practice taking showers with cold water from slow dripping faucets just so you won’t be disappointed. Or just don’t wash your hair for 5 days, like some people in our group of two, and see what happens. Practice pouring hot water on each other from a bucket, just like they did to us in the Serengeti.

Research the animals, country and culture a little bit before you go. Be prepared for intelligent conversations with the guide, not assuming his country is the same as every other country in Africa. For example, if you tell a story that starts with “when I was in South Africa....” your guide might be thinking “who cares, this is not South Africa”. He also probably doesn’t have any thoughts on vacations to the Egyptian seaside.  We know, because we asked.

Be prepared to be humbled if you think you’ll see animals before your guide does. I tried to be competitive and announce animals first, but usually it ended with him saying “there’s a leopard”, me pretending to see it at first, then him knowing from my voice that I lied when I said “oh ya I see it”. So he’d take a photo with my camera, zoom in on the picture and he’d show me the spot where it was. Sometimes I still didn’t see it.

Ben saw this leopard from a kilometer away, and when we got close, I still couldn't see it. Can you?

And don't call out “lion!” until you're reasonably sure it's not a termite hill.

What else to bring
You’ll need a UK power adapter, and I suggest one with multiple USB ports to be able to charge many things at once. Some lodges may have limited hours on when you can charge stuff, but the safari truck should have an outlet you can use on the road.

Bring the longest zoom lens for your camera that a friend will give you. We got a 70-300mm lens from Philippe and it was awesome.  I also think that this size is the limit of when you are still cool, but not a jackass.  If your camera lens is so long that when hanging from your neck it hits you in the balls when you walk, you deserve it.

With a big zoom, you will see this...

...instead of this.

Your guide might have binoculars, but if you have some laying around at home, bring them (ya right, who has binoculars at home?)

Bring a flashlight if staying in the bush.  It's creepy to see all of the glowing eyes staring at you when you shine your light into the bushes at night.  But addicting.

You'll need cash for souvenirs and tips for the guide and hotel staff.  This is important, as the staff are SUPER helpful and they work hard for these tips.  Usually there is a shared tip box, which the staff splits so you don’t have to tip each individual.  Each person should plan on giving $10-15 per day for the hotels and guide, each.  It's worth it!

An alarm clock for when you have to wake up at 5 am will come in handy. It will happen more often than you want.

Your favorite wife or friend can make the experience more fun, and consider a stuffed animal because they also have feelings and appreciate being around other animals.

Your animals want to meet new friends

Practical tips
Ask for the WiFi password so you can upload photos and everyone at home will be annoyed at the constant posting to social media. Though the WiFi doesn’t always work so well, and sometimes not at all. But don’t worry, there’s plenty of other stuff to do, like spending 30 minutes trying to get the WiFi to work.

Stay awake in the car when driving.  You don’t wanna miss a thing.  Unless you like naps more than watching humping zebras. 

Tell the hotel chefs if you have any dietary restrictions so they can make something for dinner and for your boxed lunch (the food was really good). Lactose intolerance plus eating milk and cheese in the car does not equal a happy 8 hour game drive.

Your safari guide will provide you with water, so make sure you drink it. It’s easy to get dehydrated, and seeing millions of animals can distract you from drinking.

Consider the time of year you are going.  Ask the local tour companies if you aren't sure.  We went at the end of rainy season which meant chance of rain, but also meant everything was super green. It was gorgeous.  We even brought ponchos but luckily didn’t need them.

You might need to bring a guy with a gun if you're walking around the bush

Animal observations
Don’t leave food where baboons can get to them (like in your tent), and be careful when eating outside as they can run up and steal your stuff from right in front of you. And don’t feed animals on purpose, even cute little birds that look at you with sweet eyes while you eat a piece of chicken on your picnic. Don’t even think about touching the animals (ahem, Zosia)

Lions don’t respond to “here kitty kitty."

It's worth planning a visit to correspond with the wildebeest migration, and where most of them will be during that time of year.  In the right places, you can look anywhere and see hundreds, if not thousands of them without even trying.  In fact, we saw so many that they were burned into our corneas....I still saw them when closing my eyes for bed.

Practice touching and being around creepy bugs and spiders so you don’t get scared when they land on your shoulder, your dinner plate, or your bed. Or in the shower.  And practice sleeping next to a heavy snorer to prepare you for the noises that come from outside your tent at night.

On the first day you will ask the driver to stop so you can take pictures of every antelope, zebra and monkey that you see. After that you won’t even notice them and will scoff at other “first-day safari tourists” who keep pulling over to spend 5 minutes taking photos of a gazelle. Nobody cares about gazelles after the first day.

Frolicking lion cubs are more interesting than watching an antelope eating grass

Leopards are shy - they are usually laying high up in the trees and are hard to see.

Hippos are assholes - they twirl their tail when pooping so it sprays all over everyone nearby.

Giraffes are elegant - I couldn't stop starting, no matter how we saw. But you still can’t ride them.

Buffalo are dangerous - they attack people because we don’t respect them enough. They are the “nobody cares about seeing them” animal from the Big 5 (the Big 5 being lion, leopard, elephant, rhino and buffalo). See, all of them get you excited except buffalo. But when there were a bunch sleeping outside the balcony of our hotel room in Ngorongoro, that was cool.

All baby animals are the cutest thing ever. Especially pumbaas.

Wildebeest and zebras are a good pair - the reason they migrate together is that wildebeest know how to follow the rain, and Zebras are better at remembering the way back. Every year, 2 million wildebeest travel from Tanzania to Kenya and back, chasing the good grass, as they say in Washington and Colorado.  The migration also affects predators like lions, because they face a shortage of food when the wildebeest disappear. At least that's what David Attenborough said on the Nature's Great Events documentary (not to be confused with Richard Attenborough from Jurassic Park).  They showed video of some really skinny lions, so it must be true.  The wildebeest are still finding ways to screw over the lions ever since they trampled Mufasa.

The last tip is to head to the beach for some relaxation after several days on the go.  I mean, why wouldn't you? 

Zanzibar is waiting...

And if you haven't seen it yet, here's the music video from our trip:
Andy's Tanzanian dream


Tuesday, January 15, 2019

Vegas wedding (and music videos)

March 2018

2018 was a big year for weddings for us...some friends in Poland got married, my brother, and even Zosia's dad.  So, in order to make sure we didn't lose too much of the spotlight, we decided to have two weddings!  How dare anyone try to have more weddings than us.

Zosia and I were lucky enough to celebrate both in the US and in Poland, and were very grateful for our friends and family who came to one, the other, both, and even the side celebrations.  We can't thank you enough!!!!!

Some of these amazing guys showed up without knowing there'd be a wedding

It started with a group of 8 international friends (Alan, Andy, Ash, Dorota, Jay, Iza, Noemi, and new bro-in-law Tomek) who do/used to live in Warsaw, and were tricked into coming on a trip to the US with us.  The original plan was sightseeing, sightsinning, and me getting to show off Seattle.  Then it turned into something more.

Friends and Family from Seattle, California, and a serial party crasher from Texas (hi Schwartz) joined us for an actual MEMORABLE weekend in Vegas.  I don't think any weekend in LV has ever been remembered.  It was followed by a trip to the Grand Canyon, and a few days in Seattle enjoying the best city in the world.  Even though this was just a trip "home", it was probably my favorite trip ever.  I guess it doesn't hurt when you get to marry your best friend.

Not a bad view

I bought Zosia her dream dress

They all flew at least 5,000 miles to be there with us!

The night of

Grand Canyon

I would do all of this again in the heartbeat:
1. "Outdoor" wedding overlooking the Strip
2. Eat too much at the Cosmopolitan buffet
3. Feel like you made money by not going to a club
4. Play $5 black jack all night at Ellis Island
5. See a Cirque du Soleil show (LOVE)
6. Take photos of the street where Tupac died (Tomek's top goal)
7. The clouds lift for an awesome view of the Grand Canyon
8. Explore Route 66
9. Eat garlic fries at Mariners opening day
10. Birthday party (which turned into the Seattle wedding reception) at Charles Smith winery, which is an amazing place for parties
11. Snoqualmie Falls and outlet shopping
12. Hike Rattlesnake ridge
13. Vegan desserts by Thea
14. Live music on Capitol Hill (foreigners need passports to go into bars!)
15. Unlimited games, laser tag, bowling, mini golf, batting cages and go karts at Family Fun Center (it's still fun when you're 40!)

And of course seeing family and friends and all the positive energy and love around us.  I still feel the need to thank everyone for making the effort to meet up with us, from near and far, and I find my cheeks hurting from the smiles when thinking about it.

Go Mariners! (we're mentioned on the score board!)

If you haven't been to Charles Smith winery in Georgetown, GO.  Ask for Kelly!


Does Scooter keep growing?

Rattlesnake Ridge


Thea's desserts cause your face to contort (in a good way)

Z's jaw came unhinged as a natural reaction trying to eat all of these treats at once

There were a couple moments that will last in my memory forever.  I don't think I've ever been so shocked (in a good way) that I lose control of my emotions and facial expressions.  But when Kelly (our wedding official) said that there were some guests from Chile at the wedding, Zosia and I were confused...and then we saw two life sized mice (aka our degus Andy and Jay) running down the aisle.  It was even sweeter that the original Andy and Jay were also both there, and we gave them the biggest hugs ever.  This was DURING the ceremony, by the way, when we were trying to be serious and romantic (and already fighting nerves).  But it was the BEST SURPRISE EVER.  I never laughed/cried so hard.

Kelly was the best!


Surprise guests

Not to outdo themselves, Alan and the crew gave us another surprise at the birthday/wedding party at the winery.  During the first week of the trip they had filmed an entire music video about Andy the degu, with original lyrics (based on Jon Lajoie's "Everyday Normal Guy"), and showed it at the party.  It was brilliant.  I had never laughed/cried so hard (since the weekend before).  Now it all made sense why some of them were "going out for a run", or were "busy" in the bathroom at various times during the trip.  Incredible.

So, without further ado, here are three videos; the amazing degu song, a lip synch video that we made in Vegas to commemorate the big day, and a video that Tomek put together for Z and me. I wish we could go back...

"Marry You"

"Everyday Normal Degu"

Thanks Tomek!



Thursday, December 20, 2018

A week in Albania

November 3-10, 2017

November 2017 was not an easy time for Andy (the degu), as his newly discovered teeth problems forced him to eat out of a syringe, a process which required at least three human hands to feed him. Since neither Zosia or I have three hands ourselves, we had to be there together to feed him (up to 5 times per day). But November is also the time for my annual "work trips to places I normally wouldn't visit," so I had to leave Z and Andy at home. Luckily our friends were super nice and literally lent a hand a couple times per day, for an entire week. Of course I was then obligated to bring back extra sweets.

Sweet Andy. We miss him so much!

Since I had the weekend to explore Albania, I wanted to hire a guide to take me outside of Tirana; to Berat, a 2400 year old city, and Durres, a town on the Adriatic Sea. It was actually hard to find a guide when you're alone, because online companies required paying for two people when booking it. Calling the tour companies worked better. Who knew that human interaction was actually an important concept? My new friend-for-hire Elio picked me up in the morning at the Rogner hotel in Tirana, and we were on our way.

My first lesson from Elio was regarding the name of the country. "Albania" isn't used by the locals anymore. They call it Shqipëri - or "land of eagles." I can see why they give us an easier word to use, because I have no idea how to pronounce their version.

It was a beautiful day for sightseeing, around 70 degrees and sunny, and Elio gave me some insight to Albanian history and culture. He started by saying that "everyone starts their day with coffee and a raki". I know that raki is a very strong (and sometimes nasty) alcohol, and started to worry once I realized it was early morning and Elio was driving me around the country. I wondered if he had started his day like this as well. He turned to me and gave me one of those "just kidding" smiles. At least I hope that's what it was.

He talked of corruption during the communist era dictatorship, the low morale but propaganda that told them they were the happiest country in the world, the suppression of religion, and the hungry and oppressed people. And then he casually mentioned that his grandpa was the dictator's chef. I thought he was joking at first, or that I misunderstood. After some awkward probing (verbal probing, that is), I realized I had heard correctly - his grandfather used to make sammies (or probably some other fancier food) for the long time head of Albania. He didn't actually refer to the dictator by name, which was interesting to me; maybe it was a sore subject. His family was well taken care of, he said, but his grandfather seemed to struggle with working for a man who many viewed as evil. But I guess when the dictator tells you to make him a grilled cheese sandwich, you do it.

I had learned so much, but we weren't even to our first destination. We finally reached Berat, which although is over 2 thousand years old, has an Ottoman feel to it due to their rule for several hundred years. The castle overlooking the city was inspiring, as were the stories about the codex (the 6th century biblical manuscript that was kept in a church there). Throughout history, bad guys like Hitler and other "collectors" wanted to find the codex, so priests went through great lengths to keep them safe and hidden. Gandalf asking Frodo if the ring was secret and safe came to mind.

After Berat we headed to Durres for a walk and some lunch. I couldn't see it, but the boot heel of Italy is just across the Adriatic Sea from Albania. There has been a lot of Italian influence in the country over the years, and a lot of Albanians speak Italian. I even remember eating at an Albanian pizza restaurant when I lived in NYC, not realizing why Albanians made pizza. Walking along the waterfront, we found a restaurant where we got fresh grilled fish, shrimp, wine, soup, sides and dessert for 10 euros each. I could get used to that.

As Elio swerved through traffic, he warned me about the bad drivers on the roads. Many drivers have bought their driver's license on the black market and never learned properly. Not Elio though, he claimed. And they all have nice cars. It seemed that every second car was a Mercedes, many of them new, which raised the question (to Elio too) of how everyone can afford them. He hinted at possible unsavory activity, but didn't go into more detail. He was happy and proud of his Opel.

While we were talking, he also convinced me to watch the movie "War Dogs" because a) it was an entertaining movie, but b) it showed a bit of the recent history about Albania's weapons and ammunition stockpiles. In short, there were literally tons of weapons and ammunition stored around the country which were received from Russia and China after WWII. This was sitting unused, and after some political unrest in the 1990's, a lot of it was looted and sold on the black market, while a significant amount sat in storage for decades. War Dogs showed how arms dealers were able to access some of this supply and make millions of dollars on it. As part of the deal to join NATO, Albania had to methodically destroy these reserves, but in 2008 there was a big accident when explosions at one of the storage facilities basically caused a massive fireworks show. Anyway, watch War Dogs. Good movie.

Berat

Durres on the Adriatic Sea

Back in Tirana I found a bar, Komitet, to try local raki. It was in the old communist style, with dozens of flavors of raki. I asked for something easy and got the honey cinnamon version. Yum! I was alone so decided I shouldn't drink too many more. Then I remembered what Elio said....

Wandering around the city led to some nice sights

The main square

The next day, my work colleague Petr, from Brno, Czech Republic arrived, so one of our local hosts took us on some more sightseeing. Jonid is a nice guy with a family at home, but he somehow found time to spend his whole Sunday with us, taking us to Kruja. Kruja is a city in the mountains, and one of the first things I noticed were all of the towers built around the mountains, far into the distance. It reminded me of the towers in Lord of the Rings, when they light a fire in one of them to send a signal to another tower, who passes on the warning, which continues through a series of towers spanning distances farther than the eye can see. And that's exactly what they were for (in the old days, not now...they just use Twitter now).

Kruja is best known for being the center of Skanderbeg's revolution against the Ottomans in the 15th century, which turned him into a national hero. Initially part of the occupying Ottoman army, Skanderbeg led a years-long rebellion of Christians against the Turks. There have been rumors of a future Hollywood movie about him, but nothing confirmed as far as I can find.

The mountains around Kruja

Cool guys

Kruja

After a bit more driving, we ended up at a restaurant called Rapsodia in Shengjin. Jonid recommended this place and it did not disappoint. It was a fancy 7 course meal, very slow food. Everything was artistically designed and based on some seafood. The Albanian red wine was terrific as well. I don't remember the final price, but it was definitely a small percentage of what it would cost in NYC or SF, and at the same quality. Back in Tirana a couple other recommended restaurants were Oda, a tiny traditional place where we went with all the bosses and squeezed elbows around a small table that resembled a family's living room, Otiom which had great service, and Ejona for nice lunch. In every place we went, the service was outstanding, with friendly and attentive servers. And great prices. Overall the quality of the service was worth the slight annoyance of having to pay cash in a lot of places: even in restaurants, shops, and the weekend tour. I'll just appreciate the country and the experience as one that far surpassed expectations.

Slow seafood

Final city view

Monday, October 22, 2018

Macedonia and Kosovo

October 13-20, 2017

Last year's trips to "places I would probably never go unless my job sent me there" included both Macedonia and Albania, and since Zosia is always keen to join me, so she decided to come to Macedonia.  Kosovo is in the neighborhood, and was on the list of "countries I didn't know anything about except that there was war there not too long ago', so we wanted to swing by there as well.

In preparation for the trip, we studied and learned as much as we could about the region, in the most logical way possible; by watching the film "Alexander", starring Colin Farrell, Angelina, and Ice Man. We learned that Aristotle was his teacher, Ptolemy was his homie, and Jared Leto had a crush on Alexander.  It was actually a decent movie, if you have 3 hours and nothing better to do.

We flew into Skopje, the capital of Macedonia, and immediately noticed the word "Fyrom" everywhere.  I had no idea what it meant, but it was EVERYWHERE.  And then I realized I was using CapsLock wrong, because it's actually "FYROM." Further inquiry of the locals revealed that it stands for the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia.  But FYROM seems cooler.  Like YOLO or FOMO or MAGA (barf).  Because of a dispute with Greece over the name "Macedonia" (since there is a region in Greece also called Macedonia), they weren't allowed to enter the UN under that name.  Thus, FYROM was the alternative. And apparently the name might change again in the future. 

View of Skopje fyrom inside the fortress

Kosovo
We got picked up on Saturday morning for a tour of Kosovo, and the education continued.  Our driver, Robert, was Macedonian, but spoke Serbian and English.  Our guide, Valon, was Albanian, but also spoke Serbian and English.  Robert and Valon spoke to us in English, but to each other in Serbian.  It was fascinating and confusing at the same time.

I had always heard about the war in Kosovo, so it was nice to put some different ideas about the country in my head.  The first important fact is that singers Rita Ora and Dua Lipa both have parents from Kosovo.  And because of that fact, I get them even more mixed up.  They both have super short names, sing poppy songs, and are Kosovoanese (though from England).  And then I learned that there's no such thing as "Kosovoanese".  First of all, because I invented that word, but second of all, most people there are Albanian by blood, and they identify more with their ethnicity than their nationality.  That means Rita and Dua both come from Albanians from Kosovo.  Got it?  

Kosovo has had a long history, but most recently declared independence from Serbia in 2008, after war tore the country apart.  Like other conflicts in the region, it seems to have been caused by one ethnicity (not country) trying to control/avoid control by another ethnicity.  Even in the current time, their status as a country is still disputed.  Serbia, for example, doesn't recognize the Republic of Kosovo.

Our first stop was the 14th century Gracanica monastery, which included original frescoes that were being cleaned by highly qualified scientists.  It's something I never really thought about, but you can't just take a sponge and Windex to the walls inside these ancient sites.  It requires a specific expertise in how to clean and what materials to use to prevent any damage.

The monastery

Got peppers?

The next stop was Pristina, the capital of Kosovo.  There were a couple memorable parts of Kosovo - one was that it was where Zosia went into a Mosque for the first time.  I don't know why that's interesting, but I think it's always nice for people to experience things from other cultures.  The mosque was very simple (most mosques are more humble in appearance that Catholic cathedrals, for example), and it was interesting to see the locals going for prayer.

We also noticed a Bill Clinton statue, because they love him for his help during the Kosovo war.  We visited an ethnographic museum of an old house (I love these types of "real life" museums), and the city bazaar. Finally we stopped in Prizren, a quaint town with a nice castle close to the Albanian border.  Here is where our guide and driver showed us some good Balkan food.  And there's not much better than some good food, outdoor seating in 70 degrees and sunshine, with some nice wine to wash it down.

That's where we learned that Kosovo uses Euro for currency even though they are not in the EU.

Maybe we'll have a third wedding in Kosovo

Do you think maybe we ordered too much?

Inside the mosque

Prizren

Macedonia
Of course we wanted to explore Macedonia a bit, so on the next day we drove to Lake Ohrid with Nadya and Petko from work.

Lake Ohrid is on the border of Albania and Macedonia, with the main town of Ohrid on the Macedonia side.  We hired a guide to take us around and it was definitely worth it, otherwise we'd be wandering around, not knowing we were looking at a theater from the 2nd century BC, or mosaics from the 4th century.  We also wouldn't have felt so dumb because the guide spoke 11 languages, which is at least 10 more than me.  We took a small boat ride and had lunch in one of the waterfront restaurants; the lake was so big it felt more like the sea.

According to legend, the city once had one church for every day of the year (365).  There are still quite a number of them, but the city has only 40,000 residents.  Another legend that Bill Nye would probably debunk is that you can hear St Naum's heartbeat in his tomb, when you put your ear really close to it.  I'm pretty sure you're hearing your own heartbeat in your ear.

Cruising around Macedonia

Lake Ohrid

Nice view of the lake and monastery

Back in Skopje, we finally felt like we were in a big city.  There were big office buildings everywhere, wide boulevards and walking areas, and giant statues.  The city was destroyed by an earthquake in the 60's but has done well to put itself back together.  However, there is a feeling that a lot of corruption is behind the rebuild, with the most recent expansion costing nearly 10 times the original estimate, and certain construction companies seemingly the winners of most of the contracts.

This one is called "King and his selfie stick"

There is a big dispute over the "Equestrian Warrior" statue in the middle of the city, which is obviously supposed to be Alexander the Great.  They can't specifically call him by his name, or it would annoy Greece even more.  The Greeks feel like Macedonia is stealing some of their history, and there are even talks now about removing the statue completely.  I don't even know what to believe about it, but the truth is that it's a cool statue!

The "Equestrian Warrior"

The city itself felt more Turkish than European, which makes sense considering the Ottoman influence over this part of the world.  The food was either Turkish-ish, or seafood, and we were happy with both.  The ayvar was awesome and the bread was crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside.  Everyone we came across was very friendly and open, without making you feel like they wanted something from you, or wanted you go to into their restaurant or ride in their taxi.  Even though that's usually what we wanted to do!

Touching Alexander's water