Monday, August 26, 2019

Polish wedding, actually

August 24, 2018

It's been almost a year and a half since our Vegas wedding, which was definitely the experience of a lifetime. But if there is anything better than one experience of a lifetime, it's two experiences of a lifetime.

Most people who go to Vegas to get married do it to avoid the hassle of a big blow-out "traditional" wedding. Nobody likes to argue with the family about whom to invite, where people should sit, worrying about logistics for guests, finding a DJ and photographer, weather problems, and all the decorations. What about entertainment for kids? Should we even invite kids? Oh, and finding a venue and a church that will allow a non-Catholic to get married there. And not to mention the cost. Who wants to deal with all of that? Obviously, we did! I guess?

Family

But oh yes, it was worth it. We spent hours and days watching other people's wedding videos and checking their photographs. We poured through Etsy for ideas on decorations and entertainment. We made a thousand origami cranes. It took a couple months, making them in front of the TV, on airplanes, even at work for one of us (ahem). And it was kind of sad when they were finished. Luckily it took another couple weeks to put them on strings to hang.

Weeks' worth of cranes

There were some things that we didn't want to draw out so we did them quickly, and others that took more time. I spent about 3 minutes picking a shirt and tie to go with a recently purchased on-sale suit. Zosia liked shopping for wedding dresses so much that she bought two. We had to meet with priests from 3 different churches to get approval; the church in Czersk where the wedding took place, Zosia's church in Mokotów where she attended regularly, and the church near our apartment to get permission to have a wedding in someone else's district (and so that they could announce the wedding and allow for anyone to oppose it). Zosia's mom also went to the church in Eastern Poland where Zosia was baptized to get her paperwork. Zosia was amazing at keeping track of all of these things, and I just appeared where I was supposed to appear, and pretended to understand Polish when they talked to me.

On one of the visits to Czersk without a car, we got stranded on a freezing February evening and waited for an hour in the cold for the bus to come. It never came, and since Czersk is a quiet town, there was no other public transport late on a Friday evening. We went back to the Church to ask the priest for help, and one of his friends who was hanging out after Friday service happily drove us to the next town so we could find a taxi home.

During these "challenges" we thought about Vegas, where it took about 10 minutes to apply for and receive a marriage license, but our adventures in Warsaw didn't deter us. After sending the invitations, we were excited for every attendance confirmation, especially from guys who actually wanted to travel to spend the day with us. We were humbled how willing people were to get to Warsaw. And of the people who had to take a tram or Uber to get there are also appreciated!

Speaking of invitations, we wanted to "save" the environment (and money, who am I kidding) by creating postcard invitations and electronic RSVPs, rather than those invitations with 7 different pieces of paper of various sizes and thickness and envelopes in one. I still don't know what you're supposed to write in that blank space next to the "M" on those fancy RSVP cards. And in Polish tradition, we tried to meet most people in person to give the invitation and receive the RSVPs. We didn't have a wedding cake; instead spending barely $40 on supplies to make s'mores by the campfire (some of which accidentally disappeared on the bus ride to the venue). And like most Polish weddings, we brought our own alcohol, which made it even cheaper.

A friend from Prague told me about her own wine tasting party, where they had to test wines they wanted at their wedding. It sounded like a great idea, so we bought a bunch of wines and invited people over to help. 20+ bottles later, we ended up with Georgian red and a Portuguese white. Not only is Georgian wine delicious and cheap, Georgia is also a meaningful place to us, and reminds me of my mom, since we were on a trip to Georgia when she died a couple years before. I'll never forget the sunrise the next morning when I could feel her presence all around us. We chose Portuguese because it is also a good value, but because we spent a week in Portugal after we got engaged. When there are millions of wines to choose from, it's easier to narrow it down if they have some meaning.

We took a few other ideas from a friend at work, like putting out jars for people to write notes of advice, stories or messages for us to open after 1, 10, and 25 years. We also bought a bunch of flip flops for ladies with high heels and umbrellas in case of rain. Although we were frugal in some areas, we decided to splurge on a videographer with a drone. The castle at Czersk and the venue Firleje were great for this. Zosia was concerned that the castle wouldn't allow it, but the videographer had the approach of "just do it" and see if they try to stop us.

Tomek and Zosia's mom helped a lot with transportation, setting up, flowers, signs, and decorations. Tomek even took days off from work to help us. You don't think of how many things you have to do, from flower centerpieces, signs for the table assignments, name tents, and all the other decorations. When we picked up the fireworks, we didn't have space in the trunk of Tomek's car, so Zosia had to literally sit on top of a box of explosives. Luckily there were no events at Firleje the day before, so we were able to set everything up on Friday.

Don't fart on the explosives! 

There were so many things that we needed help with on the day: Ania and Lukasz driving us around, guys at the Sheraton who stored and carried stuff for us, Doremi and Garth organizing the bus rides, guys serving drinks at the castle, my bro helping with the many generous gifts (and being my "witness" even though he had no idea what the Polish speaking priest was saying), our impromptu flower girl, Ania and Ash with beautiful speeches (and Ash's balloon animals), Tomek put together a lovely video, Alan provided Alanówka, and all the people movers, vodka pushers, and influencers who ensured everyone had a good time. Zosia's dad also helped financially which was a blessing. Once everything was set up, we really didn't have any stress on the day, because there were so many people taking care of us.

Ania was Zosia's maid of honor

I was Zosia's groom

We originally thought it would be nice to have the wedding in Czersk, after visiting with Colin and Rachel several months before. We asked at the castle if they have wedding receptions there since the church is just next door, and they looked at us like we were crazy. But the idea of wedding photos inside the castle stayed in our heads, and I didn't understand how it wasn't a "thing" already. We didn't want to do the party there, but at least stop in for some photos and bubbly drinks. The biggest problem was that it was an hour outside of Warsaw, and that we didn't love any of the reception venues in the neighborhood. Plus, having church weddings where you don't have any connections is often hard to do. So we set that idea aside. We visited many possible venues, in the country side, in the city, near a lake. Some were too small, some were too fancy. One was amazing, but they treated us like they were doing us a favor just by letting us visit, and it would be difficult logistically. Finally we found Firleje, which offered the countryside feel we wanted, a lot of space, a good price, and a very attentive event planner, Agata. None of the other places advertised any kind of help, let alone friendly and willing help. That was all we needed, and we were sold.

But what about the church? Could we find one nearby? (nope). Did we still want to go to Czersk? (yep). Unfortunately we still faced the issue that we weren't from Czersk, nor did we ever attend church there. Why would they allow us to take up one of their valuable summer Saturday wedding slots? Then we caught a lucky break. Zosia's dad (a surgeon) told us about a patient he just met who was from a small town outside of Warsaw. One that we might be interested in meeting. The mayor....of CZERSK! She was lovely and immediately introduced us to the priest in Czersk, and everything was set. Someone (or something) was looking out for us big time.

Hugs in Czersk castle

Throwing the bride, because why not

Agata was amazing. Let's just start with that. I didn't think we'd get this much help when we started this process. She answered a million questions, was always available, WANTING to help, not making us feel like we were bothering her. She even met us for a drink in the city, to discuss logistics and introduce us to her friend who also got married in Firleje to answer any questions. We had a couple small hesitations about the venue, regarding the dim lighting, far distance, and dietary needs of some guests (vegan, gluten-free, lactose-free, etc), and she made everything seem so simple. She suggested the DJ, who turned out great and could announce everything in both English and Polish, and made sure we had all the on-site help we needed. The only downside is that it wasn't close to home. Nor to Czersk. So we got comfortable with the fact that guests would spend nearly 3 hours in the bus that day. One hour from Warsaw to Czersk, another hour to Firleje, and a third hour to get back home. If we could entertain them with vodka, spam musubi, and games, we figured they'd survive. Even if not everyone "survived" the ride home.

I can't say that I was actually nervous for the wedding. It was amazing to see all our friends and family there, but since we had already "practiced" in Vegas, I didn't feel any pressure. Except for having to repeat the vows in Polish. I had to practice quite a bit before, and it turned out that I was only prepared for part of it. I don't know if the priest forgot to warn me about the second part, or if I just blacked out. But when he started asking me to say more stuff in Polish, I panicked a little bit because I didn't know what he said. The priest decided that we didn't need a translator, since I claimed to understand what I was saying. To test this during one of our meetings, he told Zosia (in Polish), "I'm going to check if he knows what I am saying", then asked me "what time does the wedding start?". That was it. That was the test. But in fact, this was not actually testing my knowledge of the Polish language, it was testing my ability to keep track of our wedding schedule. Luckily, the answer was 3pm, and he was convinced. The priest was pretty intimidating and direct during our meetings, but during the ceremony he was the sweetest guy we could have asked for. Many people even commented later how nice he was.

The ceremony

All smiles

Everyone inside the castle walls

Zosia was also stressed for the first dance, but somehow I wasn't worried. I guess since everyone knows she can dance after years in a dance/performance team, she felt pressure to look good, while I just had to look like the clumsy groom, which is pretty standard for wedding dances. However, we didn't want to have something slow and sappy. We tried to make something fun, telling the story of our time together through lyrics of different songs. We procrastinated long enough in our preparations that I was beginning to think I wouldn't have to do any dance, but finally Zosia decided we needed to be at the gym at 6am every day to practice in front of the mirror in the fitness room. After a few days of working on the choreography and morning practice, I started looking forward to our rehearsals. I'd jump out of bed in the morning, and pretended we were in the show "Dancing with the Stars". The professional (Zosia) was teaching the hopeless one (me) how to do it. It turns out I wasn't so terrible.

Showing off her sweet moves

Andy made a cameo appearance

The weather was great, it wasn't too hot and the rain stayed away. We were worried it would be too hot, which it was inside, but since we could go out for fireworks, s'mores, flip cup, and just to hang, there was no problem. I was happy that we started the party with the traditional bread and vodka greeting from the parents, then danced the Polonez in a huge circle outside (which looked great from the drone). It was also nice of the kids to let me break the pinata later.

My favorite part of the Polish wedding tradition

Polonez dance out front

Zosia's favorite part: s'mores

The day flew by, and just like everyone says, it was difficult to be able to spend time with everyone. But it was SO MUCH FUN. From the dancing to speeches, videos, games, catching up with people, the hugs, inspirational talks, and just the feeling of love. We were so happy to see all of our family and friends in one place. It was unreal for me to see so many friends from Seattle and different times of our lives come together. For some of us, we hadn't been together in the same room at the same time for 20 years. The party went until after 3am, which still felt like a snap of the fingers. Had the wedding been in the Seattle or Hawaii, not only would it have cost 3 times more, but it would have finished at 11pm and we would have 4 fewer hours of memories. It's great that people make the effort to say a few personal words during the reception line, because sometimes that's the most you'll be able to talk to people in the night. Except in Poland you feel like you should drink vodka with everyone, so I was busy trying to accomplish that goal. I tried to eat whenever I could, but Zosia didn't eat much. There were a ton of leftovers, so she was able to finish them for the next week, and even a year later, we still have some leftover alcohol (for 120 guests we budgeted 1 bottle of vodka, half bottle of wine, and a third bottle of prosecco per person, plus a couple kegs of beer, which left us with 60-70 leftover bottles in the end). But I guess that's better than the opposite, which would be dealing with a revolution when the drinks run out. We've since experimented making different flavored and fruit infused vodka.

We of course have to say thanks to my dad, who was very supportive and easy going, and sponsored dinner the night before for our families to meet and to welcome our friends from home. I will also remember the moment that Kevin showed up after Friday dinner and found us on the street outside of a bar, and everything became real. The gang was all there.

The second wedding was a success, and now we're wondering when (and where) to have the third. It's probably time for it!

We can't stop watching these, so apologies if you are sick of it, but here's our wedding video "trailer" and our first dance. Special thanks to our wonderful photographer Pawel Kotas and videographer team from Spark. We highly recommend them!



Sunday, August 11, 2019

Zosia's surprise birthday in Athens

April 20-22, 2018

After Zosia and I got engaged on her birthday in 2017, I thought she might be looking for another birthday surprise in 2018.  I thought maybe I could get away with just a balloon and a cupcake, but I probably have to let her down slowly...can't just give up completely, right?  At least not for another year or two.  So I decided to plan a trip without telling her the destination. She packed her bags, we headed to the Modlin airport (so she knew it was a RyanAir destination), and I asked her to guess where we were going. She looked at the departures board but couldn’t guess, so I gave her a clue: a piece of paper with images of some temples and gods, the seaside and souvlaki. It took her only a few seconds to scream “Ateny!!” after she noticed the Parthenon. She had always wanted to go to Greece, especially after we visited Macedonia the previous year. I was happy the destination was approved.

Athens is named after Athena (or vice versa), the goddess of war, who was born out of Zeus’s head. I’ve always been a fan of Greek mythology (and the re-named Roman versions - for example, Athena is Minerva), but I wonder if people actually believed someone was born out of someone else’s head? She was supposedly cut out of his head by Hephaestus. How does that even work? Athena and Poseidon had some sort of competition to become protector of the city. To influence the decision makers, Athena gifted them an olive tree while Poseidon gave water. They chose Athena, so Poseidon got to hang out at Sounio (his temple is beautiful there), and the rest is history.

View of the Acropolis from our apartment balcony

Besides the Gods and Goddesses, the “real” ancient history is fascinating. From the first Olympic Games, the original marathon, all of the famous Emperors, philosophers, fraternities and sororities, and even the language.

The city itself has not done well since the financial crisis. They struggle to support themselves and tourism is barely keeping them afloat. The city is somewhat dirty, but still packed with visitors, restaurants (and greeters who really test your patience when trying to get you to go inside), pedestrian areas, street vendors, marble, smokers, and cats.  Zosia took more photos of cats than of the ancient sites.

We joined a free walking tour, which took us around to many nice parts of the city: We saw the white houses of the Anafiotika neighborhood, churches, the national garden, parliament, the agora, and of course the sweaty hike up to the Parthenon on the Acropolis. After a while, you kinda get numb to the thousands of years old buildings and ruins. Down below, the size of the columns of Zeus’s temple were impressive. That’s what she said.

Blending in in Anafiotika

Parthenon

Zeus's ancient graffiti has lasted a long time

Zeus's temple is small?

Nope!  We're so sneaky.

We also took a trip out to Poseidon’s temple, 30 minutes down the coast. It was super windy but the scenery was beautiful. The rocky coast reminded me of driving along Maui towards Lahaina, or around Big Sur in California. I guess we sometimes forget to appreciate what we have in the US.

Poseidon's temple

And oh, the food. And free tap water. That's money.  Literally.  You don't have to buy water in restaurants.  And it’s nearly impossible to be on a street without a restaurant. That's a lot of free water.  And outdoor seating. There were so many mouth watering places that we were always hungry. We had good, cheap seafood at a place called Atlantikos, and we tried another place recommended by our guide with a sign I can’t read (so don’t know the name). The place was so busy that the waiter was sweaty from running around so much. On our way out I poked my head to the kitchen where he was catching his breath to tell him we appreciated his hard work.

Luckily Zosia also likes to eat and try different things, so we were happy to order a lot and share. In just a weekend, we found many dishes we knew from eating in other countries, but the "original" versions somehow tasted better.

Delish

Greek yogurt (of course) - which was thicker than the Carrefour brand, served with honey and fruit
Znakopita - spinach pie
Moussaka - we made some when we got home
Meat and souvlaki pita, where we learned that "gyros" is the meat shaved from a giant spit (what they call "kebab" in Poland), but kebab is minced meat grilled on its own individual skewer
Fava puree - Hannibal would be proud
Dolma
Pita and Tzatziki
Fried eggplant with yogurt and tomato sauce on pita
Greek salad - it really is Greek!
Ryba po grecku (just kidding, this was nowhere to be found).

For those unfamiliar, “ryba po grecku” means “fish in Greek style”, and is a very common dish served at Polish Christmas. Nobody has been able to explain why they call it "Greek style", as it’s definitely not Greek. But anyway, I really like it, which shows how much I like Greek food...just put the work “Greek” in the title and I’m a fan.  Greek sheep intestines?  Ok no, it doesn't work for everything.

After such a nice trip, I'm already starting to plan Zosia's next birthday surprise....in Radom.

Wednesday, February 27, 2019

How to survive a safari

I quickly got undressed when I heard him call out. "I'm here! Are you ready?" I hurriedly kicked off my socks and the rest of my clothes, slipping on my flip flops.  I didn't want to make him wait; after all he was doing me a favor.  "One second please," I begged.  I pulled the curtain back and stepped in the shower, nervously proclaiming "OK, I'm ready!" and he let me have it.  

I waited a few seconds in the chilly air, until the hot water finally started pouring down on me.  I lathered up quickly, not knowing how long it would last.  I shouted back to the nice man "OK, you can stop for now.  But I need to rinse still, so don't go away yet!"  He couldn't hear me.  "How much hot water do I have left?"  I had to repeat a couple times, loud enough for everyone in the camp to hear.  "10 liters," came the response finally.  I realized I asked the wrong question, because I had no idea how much shower you can take with 10 liters of water.  Is that enough to savor the warm feeling, to let the water run down your face and the back of your neck for a few seconds?  Or did I have to hurry and risk being left with soapy hair?  After another minute, I shouted back to him "OK, hot water, please!"  I didn't take any chances.  I rinsed as fast as I could, but still felt as good as new.  After a day long game drive in the hot Serengeti, I was happy to be clean.  

"Thank you, I'm done!  But now can you do my wife?"

I guess I should explain that the guy was standing OUTSIDE of the tent.  Every time we'd ask for hot water, he'd pour some in a small bucket, use a pulley to raise the bucket high enough so gravity would force the water down a tube and into the shower stall which was a separate part of our tent.  He couldn't see inside (I hope), so it wasn't as creepy as it might sound.  But it also wasn't the least awkward thing I've ever done, shouting to a stranger to "give me more" while naked in a shower.    

The black tank is for toilet/sink water, while the small bucket on a pulley was used to deliver hot water for the shower in the tent

********************************************************************************

We learned a lot on our recent safari in Tanzania, visiting Arusha NP, Serengeti NP, and Ngorongoro Crater, so we thought we’d share a few tips.  Not only on how to make your shower the least awkward as possible, but generally the best way to survive a safari.

The first assumption is that you actually want to survive a safari.  If you prefer to get chewed up by a pack of hyenas, trampled by a disgruntled buffalo, or gored in the face by a rhino, all for an awesome viral video, that's also understandable.

The most important thing is to hire a guide to whom you can ask stupid questions and bother with things he/she has heard a thousand times already. They will do their best to act interested when you excitedly tell them you saw a monkey scratching his butt or an elephant rolling in the mud. Or a gazelle just standing there. Imagine if someone started yelling to you how they just saw a Polish guy eating pierogi.  I see this every day, but they don't see it often in Africa.  A POLISH GUY!  HE WAS WITH HIS BABY AND DRINKING WATER!!!!!  AND THEN HE LAID DOWN AND IT WAS SO CUTE!!!!!  Now YOU try to act interested when someone says that.  Not easy.  That's how hard they work to make you feel special.

Guides are also important because somehow they have GPS in their brains to get around the parks without any signs or directions. I felt like we were driving in circles the whole time, but Ben (from Shemeji Safari Tours) always knew exactly where we were, where the animals were, and how much fuel we had left in the car to get home. Actually, maybe we WERE driving in circles.

Cheers to our guide, Ben!

Now that the obvious point is out of the way, here are our tips.

Swahili language
Here are a few words you need to know:
-Jambo means "hello", and everyone will say it to you. They are not calling you fat (jumbo), nor offering you a fruit smoothie (Jamba juice). Smile and offer an awkward “heyyyy” like I always do.
-Mambo is the plural of jambo and used interchangeably. I laughed about 50 times thinking that "mambo jambo" are real words. I also enjoyed the 5th time someone said “mambo” to us. “That was Mambo number 5!” I giggling to myself.
-Simba is the Swahili word for "lion". This leaves me with mixed feelings since it means our favorite Disney hero had a pretty boring name. Is that the best that Mufasa could think of? It's like if we called our kids "child" and "human".  Are they gonna tell me now that Sebastian is French for “worrisome crab” and Mulan is Mandarin for “awesome warrior princess who sometimes dresses like a boy”?
-Safari refers to any kind of "journey"; not only for animal watching. So I decided to call my daily walks to work "safaris".
-Asante is “thank you”.  Asante for reading this far.
-Shilling is the local currency. No wonder the waiter ran away when I offered to give him 10,000 “shingles”
-Karibu means “welcome”. You will hear this a lot because the people (in Tanzania at least) are incredibly welcoming
-Rafiki means “friend”. I like this reference because I loved Rafiki in the Lion King.  I got the warm and fuzzies the first time I watched the opening scene when he walked thru the crowd all serious and important, and gave Mufasa a warm hug.
-Pumbaa doesn’t mean anything but everyone calls warthogs “pumbaas”. This is fun, but why don’t they call any other animals from Lion King their character’s names? Timon? Nala? Zazu?

The little pumbaas were so adorable!

Clothing and shelter
When you're on safari, you are obviously spending a lot of time in nature.  Wear clothes you don’t mind getting dirty or stained by the pen you used filling out the immigration form at the airport but lost the cap and put it in your pocket. Also, safari trucks have tops or sides that open up so the dirt is always coming into the car. You’ll have a nice brown or red layer on everything. Please also cover your camera and phone to prevent damage.

Obviously you want to wear stylish and breathable khaki hiking pants, which can convert into shorts.  They look cool, are temperature cool, cover your legs when necessary, and are easy to wash and dry overnight. Don’t worry if they’re too long because I can show you how to use rubber bands around your ankles to prevent them from dragging on the ground. This also prevents mosquitoes from sneaking up your pant legs. Maybe consider a bigger size because you will eat a lot and get no exercise because you’re sitting in the car for 10 hours a day. You will probably get fat.

How cool do we look?

My own brilliant invention.  You're welcome.  Except wear long socks. 

A light weight, breathable long sleeve safari shirt is optional if you want to look even cooler. I'm still not sure if it's better to have the same exact color as your pants, or to have some variety.  You could actually survive with just t-shirts in the day and a sweatshirt or light jacket at night. But please also consider if your arms might get sunburned, and if so, having sleeves could be useful. I prefer technical running race shirts, to show off achievements from my past, but also because they’re easier than cotton to wash, dry and reuse.

If staying in a tented lodge (a huge tent with a bathroom and bed), you might need long sleeves when sleeping. It gets cold at night in the bush and if a hyena or buffalo comes into your tent, you might need to run outside to save yourself while your wife is still trying to find her jacket. This didn’t happen to us, but I was prepared.

Sunglasses and a hat from your favorite sports team are important, just in case someone notices it and you can talk about your favorite sports. But we wouldn’t know because nobody wanted to talk to me about the Huskies, nor Zosia about the Mariners.

Go local sports teams!

Alternatively you can buy a full safari brimmed hat that you will probably never wear again after the trip, because you're self conscious that people would ask you why you are wearing that stupid hat to a baseball game or to the shopping mall. If you don’t have a full brimmed hat, bring a scarf or something to cover your neck in the sun. Obviously sunblock is also important, unless you don’t like the feeling of sunblock on your skin, in which case you can just get burned and complain about it later. Not that this happened to anyone on our trip whose name starts with a Z.

We saw people wearing hiking boots, but we just wore running shoes.  Unless you plan some hard core hiking (or it's really wet), you don't need anything special.  And bring flip flops for inside your tent or your room, as well as in the showers. They aren’t dirty, but they don’t feel super clean either. Ideally, steal some house slippers from the hotel where you have a layover (I recommend Doha) and use those.

Protection of self and property
If you go in the winter, the shops in your home town might not be selling mosquito spray, so you should definitely pay a lot of money to buy at least four different types of spray online, because you’re not sure if 50% DEET, 25% DEET or non DEET is more effective and better for your skin and clothes. It's better to just buy everything, and pay a crap ton for fast shipping.  A pro tip is to spray repellent on old strips of cloth and wrap these around your ankles and wrists (seriously).  It's good to overreact because in the end you might only use 1/3 of one bottle, so now you have several unused bottles of spray to use for the next several exotic trips.

We actually have a fifth unused bottle as well.  SMH.

Every hotel and rest area we came across had western toilets and stocked toilet paper, but you never know when you might have to squat in the literal bush. I actually peed when staring a lion in the face.  Not in my pants though, I'm just saying that you never know when you might have to go.  You might want to carry some extra TP around to not recreate problems from previous trips, in case you’ve ever had such problems on the side of a hill next to a highway in Georgia (the country). Also bring wet wipes to wash up before and after eating picnic lunches in the middle of the park.

And chocolate melts in your pocket when it’s hot out. Oops.

Preparation of your mind and body
Do some squats to train before the trip. You will stand up from your seat to look out of the top of the car at least 50,000 times.

You'll stand up a lot to look out of the open roof and pretend you're petting a lion

Get your vaccinations and bring malaria pills.  It turns out that nobody in Tanzania or Zanzibar checked our vaccinations, but apparently they could have.  Nothing is actually required unless you come from a place that has yellow fever.  You usually have to take malaria pills for a week after the trip is over, so that's fun.  Luckily we didn't have any stomach problems during the trip, but after we got home, the malarone pills were beating up our stomachs.

You might not always have high water pressure and hot water. To prepare for this, you should practice taking showers with cold water from slow dripping faucets just so you won’t be disappointed. Or just don’t wash your hair for 5 days, like some people in our group of two, and see what happens. Practice pouring hot water on each other from a bucket, just like they did to us in the Serengeti.

Research the animals, country and culture a little bit before you go. Be prepared for intelligent conversations with the guide, not assuming his country is the same as every other country in Africa. For example, if you tell a story that starts with “when I was in South Africa....” your guide might be thinking “who cares, this is not South Africa”. He also probably doesn’t have any thoughts on vacations to the Egyptian seaside.  We know, because we asked.

Be prepared to be humbled if you think you’ll see animals before your guide does. I tried to be competitive and announce animals first, but usually it ended with him saying “there’s a leopard”, me pretending to see it at first, then him knowing from my voice that I lied when I said “oh ya I see it”. So he’d take a photo with my camera, zoom in on the picture and he’d show me the spot where it was. Sometimes I still didn’t see it.

Ben saw this leopard from a kilometer away, and when we got close, I still couldn't see it. Can you?

And don't call out “lion!” until you're reasonably sure it's not a termite hill.

What else to bring
You’ll need a UK power adapter, and I suggest one with multiple USB ports to be able to charge many things at once. Some lodges may have limited hours on when you can charge stuff, but the safari truck should have an outlet you can use on the road.

Bring the longest zoom lens for your camera that a friend will give you. We got a 70-300mm lens from Philippe and it was awesome.  I also think that this size is the limit of when you are still cool, but not a jackass.  If your camera lens is so long that when hanging from your neck it hits you in the balls when you walk, you deserve it.

With a big zoom, you will see this...

...instead of this.

Your guide might have binoculars, but if you have some laying around at home, bring them (ya right, who has binoculars at home?)

Bring a flashlight if staying in the bush.  It's creepy to see all of the glowing eyes staring at you when you shine your light into the bushes at night.  But addicting.

You'll need cash for souvenirs and tips for the guide and hotel staff.  This is important, as the staff are SUPER helpful and they work hard for these tips.  Usually there is a shared tip box, which the staff splits so you don’t have to tip each individual.  Each person should plan on giving $10-15 per day for the hotels and guide, each.  It's worth it!

An alarm clock for when you have to wake up at 5 am will come in handy. It will happen more often than you want.

Your favorite wife or friend can make the experience more fun, and consider a stuffed animal because they also have feelings and appreciate being around other animals.

Your animals want to meet new friends

Practical tips
Ask for the WiFi password so you can upload photos and everyone at home will be annoyed at the constant posting to social media. Though the WiFi doesn’t always work so well, and sometimes not at all. But don’t worry, there’s plenty of other stuff to do, like spending 30 minutes trying to get the WiFi to work.

Stay awake in the car when driving.  You don’t wanna miss a thing.  Unless you like naps more than watching humping zebras. 

Tell the hotel chefs if you have any dietary restrictions so they can make something for dinner and for your boxed lunch (the food was really good). Lactose intolerance plus eating milk and cheese in the car does not equal a happy 8 hour game drive.

Your safari guide will provide you with water, so make sure you drink it. It’s easy to get dehydrated, and seeing millions of animals can distract you from drinking.

Consider the time of year you are going.  Ask the local tour companies if you aren't sure.  We went at the end of rainy season which meant chance of rain, but also meant everything was super green. It was gorgeous.  We even brought ponchos but luckily didn’t need them.

You might need to bring a guy with a gun if you're walking around the bush

Animal observations
Don’t leave food where baboons can get to them (like in your tent), and be careful when eating outside as they can run up and steal your stuff from right in front of you. And don’t feed animals on purpose, even cute little birds that look at you with sweet eyes while you eat a piece of chicken on your picnic. Don’t even think about touching the animals (ahem, Zosia)

Lions don’t respond to “here kitty kitty."

It's worth planning a visit to correspond with the wildebeest migration, and where most of them will be during that time of year.  In the right places, you can look anywhere and see hundreds, if not thousands of them without even trying.  In fact, we saw so many that they were burned into our corneas....I still saw them when closing my eyes for bed.

Practice touching and being around creepy bugs and spiders so you don’t get scared when they land on your shoulder, your dinner plate, or your bed. Or in the shower.  And practice sleeping next to a heavy snorer to prepare you for the noises that come from outside your tent at night.

On the first day you will ask the driver to stop so you can take pictures of every antelope, zebra and monkey that you see. After that you won’t even notice them and will scoff at other “first-day safari tourists” who keep pulling over to spend 5 minutes taking photos of a gazelle. Nobody cares about gazelles after the first day.

Frolicking lion cubs are more interesting than watching an antelope eating grass

Leopards are shy - they are usually laying high up in the trees and are hard to see.

Hippos are assholes - they twirl their tail when pooping so it sprays all over everyone nearby.

Giraffes are elegant - I couldn't stop starting, no matter how we saw. But you still can’t ride them.

Buffalo are dangerous - they attack people because we don’t respect them enough. They are the “nobody cares about seeing them” animal from the Big 5 (the Big 5 being lion, leopard, elephant, rhino and buffalo). See, all of them get you excited except buffalo. But when there were a bunch sleeping outside the balcony of our hotel room in Ngorongoro, that was cool.

All baby animals are the cutest thing ever. Especially pumbaas.

Wildebeest and zebras are a good pair - the reason they migrate together is that wildebeest know how to follow the rain, and Zebras are better at remembering the way back. Every year, 2 million wildebeest travel from Tanzania to Kenya and back, chasing the good grass, as they say in Washington and Colorado.  The migration also affects predators like lions, because they face a shortage of food when the wildebeest disappear. At least that's what David Attenborough said on the Nature's Great Events documentary (not to be confused with Richard Attenborough from Jurassic Park).  They showed video of some really skinny lions, so it must be true.  The wildebeest are still finding ways to screw over the lions ever since they trampled Mufasa.

The last tip is to head to the beach for some relaxation after several days on the go.  I mean, why wouldn't you? 

Zanzibar is waiting...

And if you haven't seen it yet, here's the music video from our trip:
Andy's Tanzanian dream


Tuesday, January 15, 2019

Vegas wedding (and music videos)

March 2018

2018 was a big year for weddings for us...some friends in Poland got married, my brother, and even Zosia's dad.  So, in order to make sure we didn't lose too much of the spotlight, we decided to have two weddings!  How dare anyone try to have more weddings than us.

Zosia and I were lucky enough to celebrate both in the US and in Poland, and were very grateful for our friends and family who came to one, the other, both, and even the side celebrations.  We can't thank you enough!!!!!

Some of these amazing guys showed up without knowing there'd be a wedding

It started with a group of 8 international friends (Alan, Andy, Ash, Dorota, Jay, Iza, Noemi, and new bro-in-law Tomek) who do/used to live in Warsaw, and were tricked into coming on a trip to the US with us.  The original plan was sightseeing, sightsinning, and me getting to show off Seattle.  Then it turned into something more.

Friends and Family from Seattle, California, and a serial party crasher from Texas (hi Schwartz) joined us for an actual MEMORABLE weekend in Vegas.  I don't think any weekend in LV has ever been remembered.  It was followed by a trip to the Grand Canyon, and a few days in Seattle enjoying the best city in the world.  Even though this was just a trip "home", it was probably my favorite trip ever.  I guess it doesn't hurt when you get to marry your best friend.

Not a bad view

I bought Zosia her dream dress

They all flew at least 5,000 miles to be there with us!

The night of

Grand Canyon

I would do all of this again in the heartbeat:
1. "Outdoor" wedding overlooking the Strip
2. Eat too much at the Cosmopolitan buffet
3. Feel like you made money by not going to a club
4. Play $5 black jack all night at Ellis Island
5. See a Cirque du Soleil show (LOVE)
6. Take photos of the street where Tupac died (Tomek's top goal)
7. The clouds lift for an awesome view of the Grand Canyon
8. Explore Route 66
9. Eat garlic fries at Mariners opening day
10. Birthday party (which turned into the Seattle wedding reception) at Charles Smith winery, which is an amazing place for parties
11. Snoqualmie Falls and outlet shopping
12. Hike Rattlesnake ridge
13. Vegan desserts by Thea
14. Live music on Capitol Hill (foreigners need passports to go into bars!)
15. Unlimited games, laser tag, bowling, mini golf, batting cages and go karts at Family Fun Center (it's still fun when you're 40!)

And of course seeing family and friends and all the positive energy and love around us.  I still feel the need to thank everyone for making the effort to meet up with us, from near and far, and I find my cheeks hurting from the smiles when thinking about it.

Go Mariners! (we're mentioned on the score board!)

If you haven't been to Charles Smith winery in Georgetown, GO.  Ask for Kelly!


Does Scooter keep growing?

Rattlesnake Ridge


Thea's desserts cause your face to contort (in a good way)

Z's jaw came unhinged as a natural reaction trying to eat all of these treats at once

There were a couple moments that will last in my memory forever.  I don't think I've ever been so shocked (in a good way) that I lose control of my emotions and facial expressions.  But when Kelly (our wedding official) said that there were some guests from Chile at the wedding, Zosia and I were confused...and then we saw two life sized mice (aka our degus Andy and Jay) running down the aisle.  It was even sweeter that the original Andy and Jay were also both there, and we gave them the biggest hugs ever.  This was DURING the ceremony, by the way, when we were trying to be serious and romantic (and already fighting nerves).  But it was the BEST SURPRISE EVER.  I never laughed/cried so hard.

Kelly was the best!


Surprise guests

Not to outdo themselves, Alan and the crew gave us another surprise at the birthday/wedding party at the winery.  During the first week of the trip they had filmed an entire music video about Andy the degu, with original lyrics (based on Jon Lajoie's "Everyday Normal Guy"), and showed it at the party.  It was brilliant.  I had never laughed/cried so hard (since the weekend before).  Now it all made sense why some of them were "going out for a run", or were "busy" in the bathroom at various times during the trip.  Incredible.

So, without further ado, here are three videos; the amazing degu song, a lip synch video that we made in Vegas to commemorate the big day, and a video that Tomek put together for Z and me. I wish we could go back...

"Marry You"

"Everyday Normal Degu"

Thanks Tomek!



Thursday, December 20, 2018

A week in Albania

November 3-10, 2017

November 2017 was not an easy time for Andy (the degu), as his newly discovered teeth problems forced him to eat out of a syringe, a process which required at least three human hands to feed him. Since neither Zosia or I have three hands ourselves, we had to be there together to feed him (up to 5 times per day). But November is also the time for my annual "work trips to places I normally wouldn't visit," so I had to leave Z and Andy at home. Luckily our friends were super nice and literally lent a hand a couple times per day, for an entire week. Of course I was then obligated to bring back extra sweets.

Sweet Andy. We miss him so much!

Since I had the weekend to explore Albania, I wanted to hire a guide to take me outside of Tirana; to Berat, a 2400 year old city, and Durres, a town on the Adriatic Sea. It was actually hard to find a guide when you're alone, because online companies required paying for two people when booking it. Calling the tour companies worked better. Who knew that human interaction was actually an important concept? My new friend-for-hire Elio picked me up in the morning at the Rogner hotel in Tirana, and we were on our way.

My first lesson from Elio was regarding the name of the country. "Albania" isn't used by the locals anymore. They call it Shqipëri - or "land of eagles." I can see why they give us an easier word to use, because I have no idea how to pronounce their version.

It was a beautiful day for sightseeing, around 70 degrees and sunny, and Elio gave me some insight to Albanian history and culture. He started by saying that "everyone starts their day with coffee and a raki". I know that raki is a very strong (and sometimes nasty) alcohol, and started to worry once I realized it was early morning and Elio was driving me around the country. I wondered if he had started his day like this as well. He turned to me and gave me one of those "just kidding" smiles. At least I hope that's what it was.

He talked of corruption during the communist era dictatorship, the low morale but propaganda that told them they were the happiest country in the world, the suppression of religion, and the hungry and oppressed people. And then he casually mentioned that his grandpa was the dictator's chef. I thought he was joking at first, or that I misunderstood. After some awkward probing (verbal probing, that is), I realized I had heard correctly - his grandfather used to make sammies (or probably some other fancier food) for the long time head of Albania. He didn't actually refer to the dictator by name, which was interesting to me; maybe it was a sore subject. His family was well taken care of, he said, but his grandfather seemed to struggle with working for a man who many viewed as evil. But I guess when the dictator tells you to make him a grilled cheese sandwich, you do it.

I had learned so much, but we weren't even to our first destination. We finally reached Berat, which although is over 2 thousand years old, has an Ottoman feel to it due to their rule for several hundred years. The castle overlooking the city was inspiring, as were the stories about the codex (the 6th century biblical manuscript that was kept in a church there). Throughout history, bad guys like Hitler and other "collectors" wanted to find the codex, so priests went through great lengths to keep them safe and hidden. Gandalf asking Frodo if the ring was secret and safe came to mind.

After Berat we headed to Durres for a walk and some lunch. I couldn't see it, but the boot heel of Italy is just across the Adriatic Sea from Albania. There has been a lot of Italian influence in the country over the years, and a lot of Albanians speak Italian. I even remember eating at an Albanian pizza restaurant when I lived in NYC, not realizing why Albanians made pizza. Walking along the waterfront, we found a restaurant where we got fresh grilled fish, shrimp, wine, soup, sides and dessert for 10 euros each. I could get used to that.

As Elio swerved through traffic, he warned me about the bad drivers on the roads. Many drivers have bought their driver's license on the black market and never learned properly. Not Elio though, he claimed. And they all have nice cars. It seemed that every second car was a Mercedes, many of them new, which raised the question (to Elio too) of how everyone can afford them. He hinted at possible unsavory activity, but didn't go into more detail. He was happy and proud of his Opel.

While we were talking, he also convinced me to watch the movie "War Dogs" because a) it was an entertaining movie, but b) it showed a bit of the recent history about Albania's weapons and ammunition stockpiles. In short, there were literally tons of weapons and ammunition stored around the country which were received from Russia and China after WWII. This was sitting unused, and after some political unrest in the 1990's, a lot of it was looted and sold on the black market, while a significant amount sat in storage for decades. War Dogs showed how arms dealers were able to access some of this supply and make millions of dollars on it. As part of the deal to join NATO, Albania had to methodically destroy these reserves, but in 2008 there was a big accident when explosions at one of the storage facilities basically caused a massive fireworks show. Anyway, watch War Dogs. Good movie.

Berat

Durres on the Adriatic Sea

Back in Tirana I found a bar, Komitet, to try local raki. It was in the old communist style, with dozens of flavors of raki. I asked for something easy and got the honey cinnamon version. Yum! I was alone so decided I shouldn't drink too many more. Then I remembered what Elio said....

Wandering around the city led to some nice sights

The main square

The next day, my work colleague Petr, from Brno, Czech Republic arrived, so one of our local hosts took us on some more sightseeing. Jonid is a nice guy with a family at home, but he somehow found time to spend his whole Sunday with us, taking us to Kruja. Kruja is a city in the mountains, and one of the first things I noticed were all of the towers built around the mountains, far into the distance. It reminded me of the towers in Lord of the Rings, when they light a fire in one of them to send a signal to another tower, who passes on the warning, which continues through a series of towers spanning distances farther than the eye can see. And that's exactly what they were for (in the old days, not now...they just use Twitter now).

Kruja is best known for being the center of Skanderbeg's revolution against the Ottomans in the 15th century, which turned him into a national hero. Initially part of the occupying Ottoman army, Skanderbeg led a years-long rebellion of Christians against the Turks. There have been rumors of a future Hollywood movie about him, but nothing confirmed as far as I can find.

The mountains around Kruja

Cool guys

Kruja

After a bit more driving, we ended up at a restaurant called Rapsodia in Shengjin. Jonid recommended this place and it did not disappoint. It was a fancy 7 course meal, very slow food. Everything was artistically designed and based on some seafood. The Albanian red wine was terrific as well. I don't remember the final price, but it was definitely a small percentage of what it would cost in NYC or SF, and at the same quality. Back in Tirana a couple other recommended restaurants were Oda, a tiny traditional place where we went with all the bosses and squeezed elbows around a small table that resembled a family's living room, Otiom which had great service, and Ejona for nice lunch. In every place we went, the service was outstanding, with friendly and attentive servers. And great prices. Overall the quality of the service was worth the slight annoyance of having to pay cash in a lot of places: even in restaurants, shops, and the weekend tour. I'll just appreciate the country and the experience as one that far surpassed expectations.

Slow seafood

Final city view